Low voltage? W/vid
10-25-2007, 04:18 PM
#21
If your alt is only 80 amp, that explains the problem.
Your car needs 10 amp just to run the engine, lights anlther 10-15. A/C another 5-10, rear defog 15-20. then youve got power windows and whatever other electronics the car came with.
And, your 80 amp alt only puts out 40-50 at idle.
Your car needs 10 amp just to run the engine, lights anlther 10-15. A/C another 5-10, rear defog 15-20. then youve got power windows and whatever other electronics the car came with.
And, your 80 amp alt only puts out 40-50 at idle.
10-25-2007, 04:29 PM
#22
50 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 109
sorry if it seemed i was saying you dont help, you are always one of the first people to help it seems- i mean it seems to be a common argument on these forums that people dont feel like helping others
10-25-2007, 07:27 PM
#23
0 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 32
try this it might help you and other under stand how it works
"As long as the engine is running, all of the power for the accessories is delivered by the alternator. The battery is actually a load on the charging system. The only time that the battery would supply power with the engine running is when the current capacity of the alternator is exceeded or when engine is at a very low idle."
With that being said you said your alt is 80 amps , a rebuild one is 70 amps , 80amps started is 91 or 92. but non the less. that is the start of your problems.
as some one else pointed out your car needs so much just to run and then your system is asking the alt for the rest. replacing your battery will in deed help as well as mask your underlaying problem. it goes the same with capacitors. same process if your wiring is good alt is good and battery is good then your good.
You will have to start some where , and by the sounds of things you will be wanting more then that amp you have now. make a list of things that need upgrading and start at the top and work your way down.
if it was me I would go to the junk yard buy a used alternator take it to a local shop and ask them to rebuild it with a higher output.
when I install the newly rebuild alt I would replace all the wires at the same time. this is key, no point of having a HO alt with small wires that can't handle the load and start a fire.
by the time you replace your alt your redtop will be in and your alt will be able to keep up ,and when it can't thats when the redtop will step in and help regulate the power output
I found a nice site that goes in to details of a charging system , alternator , battery ect.
good luck with your findings .
all in all we are all trying to help but all have different idea's to get you there.
http://www.bcae1.com/charging.htm
10-25-2007, 07:44 PM
#24
If your alt is only 80 amp, that explains the problem.
Your car needs 10 amp just to run the engine, lights anlther 10-15. A/C another 5-10, rear defog 15-20. then youve got power windows and whatever other electronics the car came with.
And, your 80 amp alt only puts out 40-50 at idle.
Your car needs 10 amp just to run the engine, lights anlther 10-15. A/C another 5-10, rear defog 15-20. then youve got power windows and whatever other electronics the car came with.
And, your 80 amp alt only puts out 40-50 at idle.
10-25-2007, 08:28 PM
#25
wow guys, thanks for all the help. im going to go get a alt tomoro from the wreckers and getting it rebuilt. i got all the wires need for the big 3. there is alot of really good advise here guys. thank you for that 
we'll see what happens throughout the weekend. ill post here as things go along.
we'll see what happens throughout the weekend. ill post here as things go along.
10-25-2007, 08:42 PM
#27
0 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 25
Many people here seem to have missed the mark. JL had a bad production run of e1800 amps; the symptoms being similar to what you report. This has apparently been addressed in the newer A-series amplifiers. Additionally it's my experience that those e1800's have similar issues driving inductive loads such as W6's in small sealed boxes (CVS110, 112). Also check your amplifier gains...and if you're using high-level input well that's another topic... The e-series amps were very intolerant of even the slightest thing being not quite right. Besides the obvious as other people have stated, check your ground, (and i doubt your battery is suspect). If you have any more questions, please feel free to PM me.
ok my JL e1800d amp, seems to kick into protect mode @ 11v? is this normal? im switching out my crappy batt for my other redtop. will this solve the issue? i have video's uploading right now to show what i mean. the lowest it drops is 11.04v, car is idleing.anything below and the amp flash's protect quickly then comes back on.
10-25-2007, 11:11 PM
#30
50 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 321
Sorry should have worded it differently....
An Alternator spins ( wire wraps, and magnets inside sometimes also a regulator... )
wires supply the power to the battery to store it, electrical components in the vehicle consume the power stored in the battery.
without an alt, you wouldn't have **** all for power to use in the battery, after the current charge was depleted.
An Alternator spins ( wire wraps, and magnets inside sometimes also a regulator... )
wires supply the power to the battery to store it, electrical components in the vehicle consume the power stored in the battery.
without an alt, you wouldn't have **** all for power to use in the battery, after the current charge was depleted.
