Major dimming problem, Big 3 the fix?
#1
As soon as I start to move the bass **** the dimming starts. Move it enough and the dimming is dirty bad and I swear I can feel the car shudder a bit when I am driving at low RPM (under 2500). Running the stuff in my sig plus phoenix gold 4gu and a 1 farad cap. Factory batt and alt (115a I think). No other acc being used but still the dimming is bad. The alt looks pretty nasty to get at to do a big 3 change. What do I need to do?
#4
mechanical advise: run the car and disconnect the negative, if the car shuts off, then you need a new alt. if the car keeps running, then make sure that all your grounds are clean, make sure you get them spotless(corrosion and dirt free). make sure that you battery terms are not corroded, and also very clean. replace any defective wire(overly corroded). if you've done all this and it persists, then pull out your multimeter and check your v's, if what i said is not familiar to you, then go see an install shop. should your volts be low then get a load test done.
try unhooking your amp(s) and see if the lights dim when you just have the car running, the wipers on, the heat on, the brakes pressed and the defog on. should your light dim when the wipers turn on or when the brakes are appied, then you most likely need an alt or a batt, the load test is the best way, but i'm only giving you ideas of things to try before you take it in. but taking it in is best should any of this be unfamiliar. good luck, you probably only need a cap if everything else is ok. but i touched on the most obvious faults first.
[ July 10, 2003, 11:58 PM: Message edited by: spl builders wife ]
try unhooking your amp(s) and see if the lights dim when you just have the car running, the wipers on, the heat on, the brakes pressed and the defog on. should your light dim when the wipers turn on or when the brakes are appied, then you most likely need an alt or a batt, the load test is the best way, but i'm only giving you ideas of things to try before you take it in. but taking it in is best should any of this be unfamiliar. good luck, you probably only need a cap if everything else is ok. but i touched on the most obvious faults first.
[ July 10, 2003, 11:58 PM: Message edited by: spl builders wife ]
#5
Amp gain is at zero. PLD1 matched to the Memphis. Bass seems to come on really fast with the remote. Only a couple clicks makes a huge difference. Seems kinda peaky to me. Not like my Lanzar 1200d which was more gradual but I didn't have the line driver on it either. PLD1 is set correctly (red PEAK light comes on only with the strongest of bass hit).
#7
the memphis bass **** IS gain control...as soon as you plug in the bass ****, it takes over the gain control...with the **** at 0, the gain is at 0...with the **** at full, the gain is at full.
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