New switch panel=Speaker POP on startup
New switch panel=Speaker POP on startup
I decided to rewire my remote wires to a switch panel i made. The power comes from the power wire for the deck (because it's switched-12V) to the first switch on the panel. I then daisy-chained to the next switch for the second amp. The remote wires then run with the power wires along the left side of the car.
Here's the symptoms:
When the switches are left on and the car is started i get a loud POP from the speakers. If i turn them on after the car is started nothing happens.
I have read about relays and i do have a new 30A that can be used. Is there a way to wire my remote leads so that i can still use the switch panel and get rid of the nasty pop on startup?
-By integrating the relay?
-Choosing a different 12V source?
-Putting in a new ground?
Here's the symptoms:
When the switches are left on and the car is started i get a loud POP from the speakers. If i turn them on after the car is started nothing happens.
I have read about relays and i do have a new 30A that can be used. Is there a way to wire my remote leads so that i can still use the switch panel and get rid of the nasty pop on startup?
-By integrating the relay?
-Choosing a different 12V source?
-Putting in a new ground?
were you getting the pop prior to adding the switch bank? Did you add anything else, like an amp or signal processor? My system is wired from the remote on from the deck to a relay, then to all the amps...the relay adds enough delay to prevent any pops and protects the deck from to much current draw from the multiple amps, and or amp failure. You can try to use another 12v source (switched) from your fuse panel, and see if it still does it. Otherwise a relay works really well and has the added benefits. If you still need the switches for amp on/off control, you can also place the relay before the switches( remote on from the deck to a relay then to the switch bank).
just power the switch bank from #30. You now have the delay from the relay, the protection for your head unit, and you can still turn on/off each amplifier via the switches.
for # 87 use a high amp fused lead from your fuse panel or direct from the battery...make sure you fuse it though.
for # 87 use a high amp fused lead from your fuse panel or direct from the battery...make sure you fuse it though.
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