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Not Enough power

Old Sep 11, 2008 | 07:41 PM
  #11  
danyman's Avatar
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charge the cap maybe lol could just be that if you didnt do it
Old Sep 11, 2008 | 07:49 PM
  #12  
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ditch the cap. get your alt and bat checked! Get a DMM and see what is happening to your electrical system.
Old Sep 12, 2008 | 12:49 AM
  #13  
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I ran a kicker kx1200.1 @1 ohm with 4 awg wire in a olds 88 with a 140 alt with no issues,no dimming,etc. Stock wires too!
what kind of car is this system in?
You can do the big three first(i would) but in the end my money is on a crappy alternater.
Old Sep 13, 2008 | 09:42 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by michaltj
You need to have a at least gauge 2 (recommended 0) wire running from the alternator + to the battery + terminal and 0 gauge from battery - to chassis. It is also recommended to have gauge 0 connecting the engine block with the chassis. This is called the big 3 upgrade (due to upgrade of 3 connections)

Stock electrical system is not designed to handle so much current flow for extended periods of time.

Even if this is not the reason for your issue, big 3 upgrade is still recommended.
Out of curiosity, is there a tutorial or some sort of guide I can read about the "big 3 upgrade" for my own knowledge?
Old Sep 13, 2008 | 09:52 AM
  #15  
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do a search on here!! There are many times teh "big 3" is shown!! a few in REAL good detail!! One big thing for me in this, in your system , you say it just sounds like crap, but doesn't shut down? at least you know your voltage is dropping, but @ 9 volts (drop) should your amp not go into protect???? !?!?!?! I thought RF amps all did under 10 volts?
Old Sep 13, 2008 | 07:57 PM
  #16  
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Yes when it drops to around 9 the amp shuts off for about 30 seconds then comes back on. I'm going to do the BIG 3 and have my alt checked, thanks for the help i wont be able to get this done for about 2 weeks. After getting the system and the new alt im kinda low on cash. I'll update when i find out more
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