Salvi

Duh! It all makes sense to me now (bridging). I don't know why I thought the two left channels would have to be bridged (and the two right) in order to mentain stereo, when its obviously only up to the sound signal coming through the RCAs! This is great news, makes my decision easier!

However, I am still slightly confused about the 2vs1 (#subs) comparrison. Remember, the budget is the same whether I get one or two (I may be able to spend a bit more for two, but certainly I cannot spend double, meaning that I'd have to go lower end by getting two). However, most agree that for midrange and highs, a high-quality high-power speaker is a much better idea then a set of two low/mid-quality half-price speakers? This is not so for subs? In my example, I compared going with 1 IDQ (better stats all around for both SPL and SQ then the ID, 350WRMS ideal power, but will take more) or 2 IDs (lower quality, and about half the power requirements, and about the same price as the 1 IDQ). What you think keeping this in mind?

Oh, I will check out the sub you mentioned. Also, real-estate is not important, the trunk is HUGE and I don't care about how many subs or how large they are, I just want the setup to be right for what I want and my power level. Larger the 12" subs are out of the question as SQ is far more important to me then shaking the neighbourhood (although I like to do that also on occasion), so it boils down to 10" vs 12" and the number of subs. Truthfully, the only reason I want 12's over 10's is because I already had a setup with 10s (4 of them powered by the 50.1). Yes, I loved them, but after spending countless hours reading about subs, I found that most people agree that a 12" will keep the accuracy and SQ of a 10", but hit harder and lower, so I just want to experience it.

So, the only reason I am set on 1 sub only is because of my limited power and my interest in SQ over SPL. That is why I figure 350WRMS going into 1 high quality sub would be the better idea. I will of course upgrade later on by adding another identical setup, whatever it is that I decide on.

Keep on typing! I'd love to see more opinions, especially about the #subs for my application.

Hardwrkr

iTrader: (5)

The latest ID series is very good and a great lower power alternative to someone looking for IDQ performance. A pair of 12" ID-series is worth a look but there are a few nice low power drivers available so take a look around.

Don't worry about running the massive power of your 4ch bridged. And if you do decide on the BA Pro comps you'll be happy you have that 300rms per channel to make them really sing.

Salvi

MR2NR, thanx for DD info, never heard of them, and love the sub you mentioned. No doubt its incredibly expensive, but I may just hold up for it.

However, is my amp, delivering 300+wrms, going to be sufficient? I love the fact this is a high quality sub and that I have the ability to just get more power when budget permits and don't have to change my sub setup, but if it doesn't play with the power I have now, it will be useless to me. I won't be able to upgrade my power for at least a year, so I need a full system now.

I think I mentioned that eventually I will go with two subs, but since I like quality stuff and don't like replacing (read: selling), I was going to go with one quality sub now in a sealed box, then buy another identical sub and box later when I can afford more power. Is this a bad idea? Should a multi-sub setup always use one box?

Why did you recommend this sub to me rather then the lower-end subs from DD, especially since you know my budget and the sub I'm currently after (IDQ12)? Is it because this specific sub is awesome by itself and doesn't need a partner? How about the 9100, 2500, 1500 series, all of which appear to be cheaper?!

Also, their 6.5" midbass driver looks awesome, what do you think of it as a midbass and/or midrange driver?


HARDWRKR, I know those Bostons love good power, but I'd be worried to hook them up to my amp bridged. Originally I was interested in them because of their low resistance cuz I wanted my amp to push more power per channel. But now I'm talking about bridging, and at a 3ohm load my amp will be worked hard!

Can you list some comparable quality 6.5" components from other companies that like more then 150WRMS and are loved by the community? I was recommended Oz Audio 180s, DLS Iridiums/UR65s, Orion HCCA or P6.2.


EDIT: You know now I am primarily interested in SQ, and want to try a 12" only because I never heard it, and am under the impression that it will be just as accurate and tight as a 10", but louder and deeper. Meaning, from a SQ perspective, there is absolutely no disadvantage whatsoever to going to a 12" sub from a 10", and a couple advantages. This also suggests that the only possible reasons why any audiophile would choose 10s over 12s are space and cost. Any comments?

MR2NR

iTrader: (66)

Actually, that DD sub is not too bad at all. I am not at the shop right now, 3:45am pst, just got in from work. I will pm you some pricing on it tomorrow afternoon. This sub is a monster by any means. It is a nasty beast to tell you the truth. Tonal response is all about the box here. Pour time into that box and it will deliver the results you need. If you are going to be going to a dual sub system, then you can downgrade to the DD2512 series. Two of the 2512's will definitely hand the single 3512 it's butt on the SPL side of the game. As far as SQ results go, again, pour time into the sub box.

Definitely consider the Morel speakers if SQ is the name of the game. www.morelhifi.com

Salvi

MR2, I love your answers, but you always answer only one of my many questions, from now on I'll focus on one topic per post, lol!

Ok, give me some prices please. You recommended the 3500 series, but what can you tell me about the 9100? I am a bit confused here. The 500, 1500, 2500, 3500 hierarchy makes sense, but then there is the 9100 and 9500 which stands out. The 9500 is a flagship monster, which gives the 9xxx series a certain appeal, but the 9100 seems to be somewhere in the middle between the 2500 and 3500, with some very odd Qxx numbers, not to mention its very heavy! You have any info on the 9100 and why it even exists?

So, back to my sub setup questions which you didn't answer!

Firstly, can I run the DD with my amp and upgrade my power once I am able? I need a setup that will sound good now, and while headroom is nice, if my amp is unable to move this sub, its useless to me.

Secondly, I am planning a dual 12" setup in the future. Can I get a single sub box now, then add add another identical sub/box later when I have more power, so I'll be running two seperate boxes? Or is it important to run two subs in the same enclosure?

Oh, and about boxes.. Thats a whole other topic, and I'll start that one some time in the future when I am ready..

selective sound

iTrader: (11)

If you want to look at the dd's we have them here aswell as the Morel speakers.

Hardwrkr

iTrader: (5)

Your amp bridged to 2ch and running at 3ohm will be just fine. You won't be running tones to subwoofers so no the amp won't be working that hard.

Each of those component sets you mentioned are great choices and worth an audition. I'll add the Focal K2P set to the list. Of your list the Orion P6.2's can be had super cheap and sound quite good. Not on par with the others you have listed IMO but still a very good sounding set with tons of midbass and power handling ability.

Properly set up ANY of those comp sets will handle your amp bridged.

Salvi

I am not sure I understand. I'm assuming you mean that because I'm only putting about 350wrms into the sub(s), my 4-channel bridged won't have to work as hard to make the comps keep up with the subs? But how do I control that? Do you mean I should lower the gain on it? Or what?

Just to clarify my situation again. My 50.1 will power the sub at 1ohm for about 350wrms. My 400x4 (from around 1995) is rated at 50x4wrms@4ohm and 200x2wrms@4ohm bridged, but already puts out well over that (birthsheet itself says 365x2wrms@4ohm bridged, which funnily enuff makes each of the bridged channels stronger then my sub amp, lol). Running it bridged at 3ohm just seems insane to me. Elaborate a bit on this please, I think I don't get what you're trying to say.

Oh, and thanx for your speaker suggestion, I will check out the Focals.