I think I will take your advice though and not get the XTANT amp seeing as I won't be able to find a matching 1 or 2 channel. I already have this brand new 300/4 so I might as well make use of it and match up the other amps with this one! [img]graemlins/beer.gif[/img]

 

off topic but how did u get your sponsorship with TYC? I would love to get sponsored by them as i already have there tails and am looking to get headlights from em but i never knew they did sponsorship.

 

I am not too certain as they actually approached me. They were looking for a Celica to sponsor for Importfest 2002 and they came on our forum and saw a photo of my car and emailed me asking if I would be interested and I jumped at the opportunity. Scored me a free set of tails just to have my car in their booth at the show. [img]smile.gif[/img]

Anyways, just go on their website and shoot them an email and send in some pics of your car and a list of modifications and see what happens from there. Good luck!!

 

I found the warranty exchange receipt in the box just now so this should help out.. can anyone explain why they gave me a different sub than what my friend had before? I know it's something to do with the amp I was going to be running it with wouldn't have worked with the existing sub?

 

There are two safe ways to run this sub off of your amp. Sadly neither will take this sub to the level of performance that it was engineered for but that said it will still give some great sound. You have a dvc 4 ohm sub and a 2 channel amp that is stable to 4 ohm mono. There is no way to wire your sub to a 4 ohm mono load unless you use only one voice coil (which can be done but is not recommended).

The safe way to run this sub is to wire the sub into a series circuit and present an 8 ohm load to the amp in the bridged setting. This will infact knock the amps output down from 300 to 150w rms, well below what the sub is engineered for. A second method to wire this sub is to run one channel of the amp to each coil. This also means that if teh amp has a separate gain control for each channel, care must be taken to ensure proper setting. This method I do not recommend but in some cases must be done. This method will give you full output of the amp yet still provide about 60% of the capabilities of what this sub was designed to do.

There is nothing wrong with underpowering a sub provided you do not abuse it. In this case I would keep the 300/2 and use it for a front amp, then consider a 500/1 to drive the sub (properly) + a second amp to drive the rear fill if you have rear fill.