running ground wires from the battery
#11
the reason why you run a dedicated ground line is for reduced resistance. Most cars are only SPOT welded, not full seam welds. In either case, the metal is not mated perfectly flat like when you screw/bolt a ring terminal to sheet metal, that reduces contact area at every joint in the unibody.
If you have a full frame car/truck, and you want to make sure you get solid power transfer, just run your grounds to the frame in the back, and then run your battery ground to the frame. A frame will probably be a thicker guage than a 1/0g wire lol.
I remember reading that the average car has the same equivalent thickness as a 2g to 4g wire.
If you have a full frame car/truck, and you want to make sure you get solid power transfer, just run your grounds to the frame in the back, and then run your battery ground to the frame. A frame will probably be a thicker guage than a 1/0g wire lol.
I remember reading that the average car has the same equivalent thickness as a 2g to 4g wire.
#12
you think an amp needs a good ground try some injection system on a 30 000 $ diesel engine . they use the block as a negative . just like almost everything on your car . sensors and computers that are more sensitive then your amp
your frame is way more then 2 -4 gage it goes through everything metal . if you are having high resistance you have a bad ground go find another place to put it . your frame is basically one giant wire . a frame is better then a uni-body for a ground , why because take your fancy foot of ground wire from your amp and go to the frame not the panel's . same with a unibody , there is still a frame to it , its just connected to the body more.
you can run a negative if you want but i would personally just find a better ground or add a few ground straps to your frame or fender some don't have that many from factory . the only reason you would get less resistance through a wire is because you have a shitty ground or your frame is rust as . if i could count all the grounds i have seen on painted surfaces well lets just say i could count high
your frame is way more then 2 -4 gage it goes through everything metal . if you are having high resistance you have a bad ground go find another place to put it . your frame is basically one giant wire . a frame is better then a uni-body for a ground , why because take your fancy foot of ground wire from your amp and go to the frame not the panel's . same with a unibody , there is still a frame to it , its just connected to the body more.
you can run a negative if you want but i would personally just find a better ground or add a few ground straps to your frame or fender some don't have that many from factory . the only reason you would get less resistance through a wire is because you have a shitty ground or your frame is rust as . if i could count all the grounds i have seen on painted surfaces well lets just say i could count high
#13
Some cars have really crappy ground thru the frame, just multimeter a bunch of spots, if they all suck it's probably your car.
To the previous poster, I think it was Manville from JL that tested a few unibody cars and came up with the results that suggested the average unibody car is about equivilant 2-4g. Remember that your car frame isn't made of a solid run of OFC copper...
To the previous poster, I think it was Manville from JL that tested a few unibody cars and came up with the results that suggested the average unibody car is about equivilant 2-4g. Remember that your car frame isn't made of a solid run of OFC copper...
#16
I a strong believer that a direct connection to your battery with a nice run of oxygen free copper will give you the best connection everytime.
Check the wire going from your batt negative to your chassis... I don't know about you guys, but mine looks like something of an 8ga wire... Big 3 will help on that point, but, still... imagine it like this.
Getting from point A to point B through a mountain. What's easier, a series of underground tunnels going everywhich way (chassis ground), OR, a nice 4 lane highway with no speed limits (direct wiring to the ground) ?
Upgrading your stock wiring will just allow more cars out of the tunnel at the same time, but won't make the journey any easier... hehe
Check the wire going from your batt negative to your chassis... I don't know about you guys, but mine looks like something of an 8ga wire... Big 3 will help on that point, but, still... imagine it like this.
Getting from point A to point B through a mountain. What's easier, a series of underground tunnels going everywhich way (chassis ground), OR, a nice 4 lane highway with no speed limits (direct wiring to the ground) ?
Upgrading your stock wiring will just allow more cars out of the tunnel at the same time, but won't make the journey any easier... hehe
#17
Very well explained lol..
If we could all afford that extra wire, i'm sure it would be done, but let me say this, a car body no matter what curves , etc. it has, its all one ground, to get a good connection, you do the big 3 and just cleaning the contact where the ground goes to your body would do the job..
It all comes down to money
If we could all afford that extra wire, i'm sure it would be done, but let me say this, a car body no matter what curves , etc. it has, its all one ground, to get a good connection, you do the big 3 and just cleaning the contact where the ground goes to your body would do the job..
It all comes down to money
#18
you got the money and the time then run it to the negative . were did he test on the unibody , on the body pannels or on the frame of the unibody . it all depends on the vehicle i guess .
that copper wire will corrode as well . ever split one open and found some nice green copper inside i know i have .
this is sorta like the chicken and egg question . but not really
that copper wire will corrode as well . ever split one open and found some nice green copper inside i know i have .
this is sorta like the chicken and egg question . but not really
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post