thats cuz it wasnt applied properly. thats always the number one reason why sound deadener installs fukk up.

160F is 70C, not many cars get that hot even on the surface unless u are in the desert.

my crx was black, it had sound deadening all over, it was out all the time in the summer when it got taken to all the shows. i never had anything fall off, melt or otherwise fukk up. i also doubt it was anywhere close to 70C on the surface.

 

Product melting was a faulty installation.....clearly

 

if u know how many people out there dont know how to install differeont kinds of sound deadening and what happens to it in the long run you'd see my point.

im not sure what u mean by melting. melting means goin from solid to liquid. you'd have to have some pretty extreme temperatures to turn a roll of sound deadening material into a puddle of sound deadening material.

 

I been installing for 8+ years professionaly, I seen enough bad isntalls of every variety. I've seen 3 guys from the same group of friends 2 with black cars, one with a purple car all use resisto roofing matt from Rona. all 3 I had to pll the gunk off because it was melting and dripping off their trunk lids onto the trunk floor, amps, subs..etc.. One guy installed the stuff on his rof and same effect.. only ruined the headliner. They all used Windex to clean all the panels and installed with the wood dynamat rollers...the product just could not handle a humid heatwave.

I've seen Dynamat extreme sheets fall off in one pice because the trunk lids weren't cleaned.. RossWrx who I'm not sure if he's still one of the vendors here had Brown Bread melt and drip in the trunk of his black STi and gob up one of his amps.

In short all hot air aside..try to avoid the asphalt based stuff if at all possible and go with the butyl based deadeners

 

if a particular brand of sound deadening was falling off or "melting" every time the temperature of the surface it is on reaches a certain point no one would buy it and the product would soon go off the market. Agreed? Therefore, we can say that products which have been on the market for some time do not fall into this category. Simply because they are design to work in temperature rangers that a car's surface can fall under at any given time.

im gonna say again that most times you see sound deadning installs go back is because it was not installed properly in the first place.

im talking strictly about auto motive sound deadeners. i have no clue about stuff that Rona or home depot sells. if you tell me that those house oriented products melt when installs in a car im not gona argue with you at all. but again, who's fault would that be? the dumby who installed it in a car, the stuff is ment for a roofing/outdoor use so no big surprize it melted when installed in a tight space with no vintilation and hot air on both sides of the applicant. duh.

 

Yuli, I don't want to make a decision that I will regret, so yes, the oven test makes a difference to me - 160F is 70C. I believe there is potential for my car to reach that temperature. Each summer we have a few days that can reach upto the 38 degrees for temperature. On those days when my car has been sitting in direct sunlight, I open the door and feel a waft of heat that feels like I just opened an oven. Is it 70 degrees in the car? Not likely, probably more like 55. Yet I wonder if the steel panels could be 70 degrees. I have an amp that goes into thermal protect when it hits 70 C. When I have touched the heat sink, it is as hot as a dark car on an extremely hot day.

I then question, what do repeated days in a row at high temperatures do? We are only off by 15 degrees, perhaps repeated days of heat weaken the over-all integrity of the deadening. If that is the case, I would want to go with a product that has plenty of head room. The Butyl products had no problem until 240 and butyl doesn't have the same rap for carcinogens as asphalt does.

To me, it seems as though cheap solutions have too many draw backs, and I should buy the quality stuff to avoid any smells or failure.

And in regard to product failure as a result of improper installation - that is a useless observation to me. If installation isn't as simple as cleaning metal with acetone, heating the mat and rolling it into place, then it's too complicated. It should be easy enough for any DIYer who takes their time to do it right. I'm a guy who takes his time, and the last thing I want to do is clean up a guey dripping mess only to have the company tell me "Improper installation" not only do I have a mess, I'm a moron too. Not my cup of tea.

As far as I have read on a number of sites, I haven't seen complaints of the Butyl stuff not sticking. So that's the direction I will look.

 

i didnt say dont go Butyl. Im just saying that the test the dude did wasnt that great. He did the test at 180F, which is over 80C.

what makes me laugh (not at you but just in general) in this particular case is that many guys worry so much about the deadener working in +80C weather but they have absolutely no concern as to how it would work in -25C or lower. While the latter case is more likely to happen where you/I live.

.....now you might be thinking hmmmm how well would it work in -25C? Or how would extensive periods of cold affect the integrity of the deadener?

what if i did some test in extremelly cold temperatures like -40C and lower (why not, he did some tests at 500F, right?) which showed that (insert product of your choice based on the heat results) would appear to shrink, crack and fall off at anything past -45C. Would you still buy it because it works well in the extreme heat conditions? Or would you think twice?

improper installation is a useless observation for everyone, until ofcourse, it happens to them. at which point it's too late.

you said something about heating the mat? you could have made a mistake right there as some mats do not need to be heated at all to be applied. and some are heated on the opposite side (not the side that gets stuck to the car's panels). Three ways to properly apply it depending on the deadener you use, but most people only know of one way - heating the bottom part of the mat. That leaves a 66% chance for user missuse & improper installation.

The good thing is, when you are applying sound deadener the wrong way you should be able to tell pretty quickly that you are not doing it right. If you cant tell then you probably should let someone else do it.

didnt you say you were gonna use the from Rona anyways??? There werent any roofing materials in this sound deadener show down.

Really tho, if you are THAT concerned with extreme heat you should probably get the stuff jalat was talking about in his post, the paint on deadener. I've used that stuff too and it will be able to withstand heat much better than any of the adhesive deadeners, butyl, asphalt or whatever else.

 

No, I'm not going to use the stuff from Rona. When I originally posted this I thought that I would use some roofing stuff, but after these responses and other observations of smell and product failure, I opted away not to save the $$ and I will be using a real deadener - preferably a butyl.

What ever stuff I get, I will go to their website and download proper installation instructions for their particular product so I don't goof on applying it (Ideally I'd like to stay away from a heat gun altogether as I don't own one).

I'm not interested in the liquid stuff because this is for my doors. There are a number of large holes in the sheet metal that I want to cover over with the mat in an attempt to seal off the interior of the door.

Oh, and he did do a cold test (but not -45, just a freezer which would be -10 at the coldest) and many of the products that failed early on with the heat, failed the cold (eD stuff and brown bread).

In my mind, the reason why the heat test is more important is because heat is often required to change the properties of the adhesive to make it stick. And therefore, I reasoned, that excessive heat would cause the adhesive to go through that change again potentially weakening the initial bond. To that end, I agree with his statement
In each case, the samples applied with the heat gun seemed to have a stronger bond than those applied at room temperature. I have to wonder if using a heat gun to install asphalt mat might actually hasten its deterioration? It only takes a few seconds with the gun to melt the asphalt adhesive. This would explain why so many of the reports of failure come from people who really put in some effort - clean the surface, heat the mat and roll it down. The process of installation may be sowing the seeds for future failure.

Interesting hypothesis about heat speeding the deteriorating of the asphalt adhesive. It is completely unsubstantiated as it is just a hypothesis, yet, I agree with his logic (mainly because I hypothesized the same thing before I read his hypothesis - still doesn't make it fact, just indicates that there are like minded people regarding the properties of asphalt and heat).

 

glad to see you are not making a blind or a poorly educated buy

i also chose to go with the product that did not require any heating. I used B-Quiet Ultimate (butyl based) which has a temperature range as high as +155C, but also as low as -60C.

The lower spectrum of it was more important to me since we live in Canada and it can get pretty cold in the winter.

It is also a Canadian product and a very good bang for the buck. We used like 300 sq feet of it between 2 Honda Crx's. Layers up on layers lol. It works well when it comes to covering up the big holes, just like you intent to use it.

Never had any issues with it either and my crx is black and was outside the whole summer durring the hottest of the days.

 

^^that's good stuff!