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What Car Audio Shops Sell JL Subs / Products In Ontario?

Old Nov 2, 2009 | 03:05 PM
  #11  
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"Related to my JL thread last week and the noises my sub is making when it flexes ... still haven't figured out what the problem is."

When your sub is moving, flexing, knocking, and sound is coming out, than it's doing it's job .

Dunno how it's done, but check the voltage to see if they're the same. Push on the cone and if it hits the sides or scrapes at all, it could be blown or getting there. If your tinsels were fried, it would stop working all together. Is it possible that it's fried a little and is getting half power to one coil, half to the other (if theres 2 vc's), making the left part of the cone move more left than right? That would cause scraping. Dunno how that works. Before my Pioneers stopped working alltogether, there was scraping when I pushed on the cone. If it's a ported box, you could have some random things caught in the box.
Old Nov 2, 2009 | 04:02 PM
  #12  
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Old Nov 2, 2009 | 04:25 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by ndinadis
Radioactive in Burlington, lee is the owner nice guy, he is a big JL fan.
x2 ^ Lee will take care of you for sure, he is also a good friend of Bill's.
Old Nov 2, 2009 | 05:16 PM
  #14  
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did you play the sub free aired outta the enclosure?

btw, thats a sick terminal cup... looks custom
Old Nov 2, 2009 | 05:31 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by jalat
did you play the sub free aired outta the enclosure?

btw, thats a sick terminal cup... looks custom
No we did not ... Something to consider the NEXT time the sub comes out of the box (sadly, looking like it will have to come out again).
Old Nov 2, 2009 | 05:45 PM
  #16  
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omg u were supposed to play it free air.

it is those wires hitting the back of the cone.

Old Nov 2, 2009 | 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Father Yuli
omg u were supposed to play it free air.

it is those wires hitting the back of the cone.

I was going to sayy... possible tinsel slap.
Old Nov 2, 2009 | 06:10 PM
  #18  
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So if that's the case, what can I do to stop it? Somehow tie that down, make it shorter?
Old Nov 2, 2009 | 07:12 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by DaVibe
So if that's the case, what can I do to stop it? Somehow tie that down, make it shorter?
The W6v2/7 wires are suppose to be molded perfectly so they can't hit the cone. I find it hard to believe that might be the case.... It could be at some point in the excursion.... if it is, you should see marks on the cone above the leads or marks on the insulation over the top hump of the leads. My old 15W3 did that, I just put a piece of foam tape on the cone where the scratches were. It still hit the foam but muffled the sound considerably.

Last edited by DeadlySones; Nov 2, 2009 at 07:18 PM.
Old Nov 2, 2009 | 07:30 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by N130Gv2
The W6v2/7 wires are suppose to be molded perfectly so they can't hit the cone. I find it hard to believe that might be the case.... It could be at some point in the excursion.... if it is, you should see marks on the cone above the leads or marks on the insulation over the top hump of the leads. My old 15W3 did that, I just put a piece of foam tape on the cone where the scratches were. It still hit the foam but muffled the sound considerably.
And that's exactly what I was just going to mention ... that there were no marks on the cone showing any touching, at all. That's why I took that picture, to show that.

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