Will this JL sub and RF amp setup work?
#1
Will this JL sub and RF amp setup work?
- I bought a JL 10w3d2
_____
Nominal Diameter: 10 inches (250 mm) Continuous Power Handling: 250 Watts Voice Coil: 2.25" diameter, 4-layer, Kapton former Available Configurations: Dual 2 ohm, Dual 4 ohm or Dual 6 ohm Xmax (one-way, linear): 0.51"-0.58" (13.0-14.7 mm) depending on specific model Sealed Enclosure Range: 0.60-0.90 cu.ft. (17.0-25.5 liters) Ported Enclosure Range: 1.00-1.50 cu.ft. (28.3-42.0 liters) VRC˛ Technology: YES
It is was measured at 1.9 ohms
_____
- I was thinking that a RF p3002 amp would do the trick:
» 2-channel car amplifier
» 75 watts RMS x 2 at 4 ohms (150 watts RMS x 2 at 2 ohms)
» 300 watts RMS x 1 bridged output at 4 ohms (4-ohm stable in bridged mode)
» variable high- and low-pass crossovers (40-400 Hz at 12 dB/octave)
» variable Punch Bass (0-18 dB boost at 45 Hz) with wired remote
» Tri-way capable (Tri-Way Crossover required)
» MOSFET power supply and output devices
» CEA-2006 compliant
» preamp-level inputs
» preamp outputs
» fuse rating: 40A x 1
» 8-gauge wiring kit with a 40-amp fuse recommended — wiring and hardware not included with amplifier
» 11-3/4"W x 2-7/16"H x 11-1/8"D
I can pick up the amp for $300 taxes in (I know it can be found cheaper on other sites in the US but I dont want to get screwed over by customs).
Any alternatives that may be better? or is this a good setup and go for it?
_____
Nominal Diameter: 10 inches (250 mm) Continuous Power Handling: 250 Watts Voice Coil: 2.25" diameter, 4-layer, Kapton former Available Configurations: Dual 2 ohm, Dual 4 ohm or Dual 6 ohm Xmax (one-way, linear): 0.51"-0.58" (13.0-14.7 mm) depending on specific model Sealed Enclosure Range: 0.60-0.90 cu.ft. (17.0-25.5 liters) Ported Enclosure Range: 1.00-1.50 cu.ft. (28.3-42.0 liters) VRC˛ Technology: YES
It is was measured at 1.9 ohms
_____
- I was thinking that a RF p3002 amp would do the trick:
» 2-channel car amplifier
» 75 watts RMS x 2 at 4 ohms (150 watts RMS x 2 at 2 ohms)
» 300 watts RMS x 1 bridged output at 4 ohms (4-ohm stable in bridged mode)
» variable high- and low-pass crossovers (40-400 Hz at 12 dB/octave)
» variable Punch Bass (0-18 dB boost at 45 Hz) with wired remote
» Tri-way capable (Tri-Way Crossover required)
» MOSFET power supply and output devices
» CEA-2006 compliant
» preamp-level inputs
» preamp outputs
» fuse rating: 40A x 1
» 8-gauge wiring kit with a 40-amp fuse recommended — wiring and hardware not included with amplifier
» 11-3/4"W x 2-7/16"H x 11-1/8"D
I can pick up the amp for $300 taxes in (I know it can be found cheaper on other sites in the US but I dont want to get screwed over by customs).
Any alternatives that may be better? or is this a good setup and go for it?
#2
Which one do you have, the dual 2ohm, dual 4ohm...?
If it's the dual 2 ohm(hooked up in series=4 ohm) then that amp will work great bridged into a 4 ohm load. Any other impedance and it will not be the best set up. You want an amp that produces about the same power as the rms of the sub. This will utilize both components to their maximum potential.
If it's the dual 2 ohm(hooked up in series=4 ohm) then that amp will work great bridged into a 4 ohm load. Any other impedance and it will not be the best set up. You want an amp that produces about the same power as the rms of the sub. This will utilize both components to their maximum potential.
#4
If you want to save a few bucks the newer P200.2 can be had at Futureshop for $199 plus tax. It will do ~300rms bridged at 4ohm (where you need it) and would be an excellent match for that driver.
Otherwise I would try to get that P3002 a bit cheaper as it's a bit high on price considering it is old stock.
Otherwise I would try to get that P3002 a bit cheaper as it's a bit high on price considering it is old stock.
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