stereo too heavy
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Originally Posted by Viperoni
Maybe better, depending on if the car was bottoming out before or not.
What it does is that it prevents once coil from compressing... which means there's less coils to comrpess in total, which raises the spring rate. Also, by taking the coil out of the equation, the suspension runs the possibility of bottoming the spring instead of bottoming on the bump stops, which means the car might bottom out at a slightly higher position (good to prevent rubbing).
So yeah it'll increase your ride height, and your spring rate, but it can also affect where and how much your car bottoms out.
What it does is that it prevents once coil from compressing... which means there's less coils to comrpess in total, which raises the spring rate. Also, by taking the coil out of the equation, the suspension runs the possibility of bottoming the spring instead of bottoming on the bump stops, which means the car might bottom out at a slightly higher position (good to prevent rubbing).
So yeah it'll increase your ride height, and your spring rate, but it can also affect where and how much your car bottoms out.
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Originally Posted by Killer_klown187
well I know the coilovers will work, Just if I get coilovers I have to get some better springs cause those stockers won't cut it for long!!
Originally Posted by Chieftorius
it wont be a better ride...increasing spring rate is a rougher ride. The coil spacers almost prevent the spring from compressing. Might aswell take your springs right out and weld blocks in. You want the coil to compress still. So getting a different rear spring with a higher spring rate is the proper way to do it.
The difference in ride between the blocks and higher rate springs would be difficult to notice. The dampers are what would make the ride quality difference.
The coil spacers are installed with the suspension in droop, and this adds rate and static height. However they are made of rubber and also have a spring rate associated with them, so it most certainly is NOT like taking your springs out and welding blocks in.
What you are doing is removing the "sagging look" to the car for aesthetics as well as removing some of the load off of the rear damper and coil.
A different rear spring with a higher rate and same overall length would produce the same effect, but is much more expensive and labour intensive compared to dropping these blocks in.
Although the most "proper" way is fix the sagging look is with higher rate srings, the blocks are a simple, cheap, and effective solution.
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Originally Posted by NP6000
Your comments suggest your knowledge of vehicle dynamics is somewhat limited.
The difference in ride between the blocks and higher rate springs would be difficult to notice. The dampers are what would make the ride quality difference.
The coil spacers are installed with the suspension in droop, and this adds rate and static height. However they are made of rubber and also have a spring rate associated with them, so it most certainly is NOT like taking your springs out and welding blocks in.
What you are doing is removing the "sagging look" to the car for aesthetics as well as removing some of the load off of the rear damper and coil.
A different rear spring with a higher rate and same overall length would produce the same effect, but is much more expensive and labour intensive compared to dropping these blocks in.
Although the most "proper" way is fix the sagging look is with higher rate srings, the blocks are a simple, cheap, and effective solution.
The difference in ride between the blocks and higher rate springs would be difficult to notice. The dampers are what would make the ride quality difference.
The coil spacers are installed with the suspension in droop, and this adds rate and static height. However they are made of rubber and also have a spring rate associated with them, so it most certainly is NOT like taking your springs out and welding blocks in.
What you are doing is removing the "sagging look" to the car for aesthetics as well as removing some of the load off of the rear damper and coil.
A different rear spring with a higher rate and same overall length would produce the same effect, but is much more expensive and labour intensive compared to dropping these blocks in.
Although the most "proper" way is fix the sagging look is with higher rate srings, the blocks are a simple, cheap, and effective solution.
I had a highly similar problem with weight in my diesel F350 that has a 4" lift on it. The snow plow I have was pulling the front end down 5" when I lifted it. This is with the proper heavy duty everything for the lift kit. My only solutions were air bags or re-arc the front leafs and add two more. I opted for the latter and now have about 1/2" of squat on the front end. A couple of thousand pounds on the front, out that far from the bumper definitely translates into a different ride and handling of the vehicle. Same goes for a stereo system in the back, with all that weight, do it properly to ensure that your vehicle can also still operate in a safe manner.
500 Watt CAFz'r
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 884
Well, I'm no spl'er..... but my old set up in my previous car was near 300LB. thats includ a 90LB battery, 2/15" pr box, 2/10" sealed fg box etc. It lowered my car about 1.5"..... so i just lower the front 1.7" and it looks great. 
i did upgrade to stiffer rear springs later on tho.
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i did upgrade to stiffer rear springs later on tho.
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Last edited by SweetnLow91SC; Jan 19, 2007 at 10:00 PM.
