Ford Escape 2011 - SQ Install
11-02-2010, 04:32 PM
#11
Goalie Man
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 1,412
^ At $800-ish retail (I think), the MS-8 should top your list - unless you are determined to replace the factory deck. It has built in power for all your mids and tweets and fantastic sound processing. Add that JL Stealthbox with a 300watt amp, drop in front component speakers and you are lauging.
Last edited by goalie 35; 11-02-2010 at 04:35 PM.
11-02-2010, 04:53 PM
#12
500 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 849
Well I've looked at Morel and Hertz and settled on a pair of modest Hertz components. Not that they were better or cheaper, they just satisfied my needs and got some good reviews here and there.
I've actually just finished installing the components and will be posting up the pics a little later.
I've actually just finished installing the components and will be posting up the pics a little later.
Never heard Heartz speakers before, Can't get them around here. Wish I could though!
11-02-2010, 07:07 PM
#13
50 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 52
As mentioned previously, I picked up a set of Hertz component speakers (Energy series). The set includes a 6.5" driver and 1" tweeter, along with the corresponding cross-over. This is the first goal in the build, ditch the front cans.
I didn't take a photo of the stock speakers, however, here is the void left from the speaker. Contrasting the stock hole is the outline of the 6.5" woofer. I also replaced the stock wiring, which is no easy task given the wire harness from door to body:
The inside of the door panel looks like such:
First order of business was to create a mounting ring. Cut, pre-drilled, and beaded with acoustic caulk:
I nice clean strip of high-density door seal and it's ready to mount:
A little bit of black spray paint to finish the MDF ring, mounted the speakers and voilą!:
I didn't take a photo of the stock speakers, however, here is the void left from the speaker. Contrasting the stock hole is the outline of the 6.5" woofer. I also replaced the stock wiring, which is no easy task given the wire harness from door to body:
The inside of the door panel looks like such:
First order of business was to create a mounting ring. Cut, pre-drilled, and beaded with acoustic caulk:
I nice clean strip of high-density door seal and it's ready to mount:
A little bit of black spray paint to finish the MDF ring, mounted the speakers and voilą!:
Last edited by Donnie; 11-02-2010 at 07:17 PM. Reason: added pic
11-02-2010, 09:08 PM
#16
50 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 52
Man you guys are gonna keep me honest for sure. 
So while I poked away in the doors I noticed Ford installed 3 cents worth of foil covered tar in some kind of attempt to knock down the road noise:
I kind of expected as much so I ordered up some acoustic treatment from the good folks at B-Quiet. I'm not about plugging people for the sake of business, rather I mention the people who treat me (and hopefully other CCA'ers) well. B-Quiet sent the stuff fast, included a nice roller and even called to make sure I got my order.
Install of that stuff to follow.
So while I poked away in the doors I noticed Ford installed 3 cents worth of foil covered tar in some kind of attempt to knock down the road noise:
I kind of expected as much so I ordered up some acoustic treatment from the good folks at B-Quiet. I'm not about plugging people for the sake of business, rather I mention the people who treat me (and hopefully other CCA'ers) well. B-Quiet sent the stuff fast, included a nice roller and even called to make sure I got my order.
Install of that stuff to follow.
Last edited by Donnie; 11-03-2010 at 11:00 AM. Reason: fixed dead image link
11-02-2010, 09:40 PM
#18
50 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 52
As for cross-overs, those foam block things have a lot of room on top, one could easily dump them there, though that would involve ripping the panels off to adjust, etc. I didn't take the panels off more than once, they're still off actually.
Why half-*** stuff when all it costs you is a little more time to do it right?
11-03-2010, 09:57 AM
#19
Have a look at my stickied thread on another forum and get that crossover out of your door. Even though it is on the proper side of the moisture barrier, do the job right and get those new wires in there. This tutorial will make it easy for you.
How to wire through a door molex.
How to wire through a door molex.
11-03-2010, 10:52 AM
#20
50 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 52
Have a look at my stickied thread on another forum and get that crossover out of your door. Even though it is on the proper side of the moisture barrier, do the job right and get those new wires in there. This tutorial will make it easy for you.
How to wire through a door molex.
How to wire through a door molex.
They're not in the door, they're under the passenger seat on their own dedicated mount. As previsously mentioned, I try to do stuff right.
Last edited by Donnie; 11-03-2010 at 11:03 AM. Reason: (edit: the pic above was meant to show how much room is on top of the foam block)
