Hmm wait a minute, Are you going to run an external aftermarket amp with the components?

If so wouldn't it be a waste of time to change the wiring at the stock locations.

 

Yes, aftermarket amps will be used.

I am not sure what you mean about the change of wiring question. Why the waste of time?

 

If you use an aftermarket amp you won't need to use the factory wiring to the speakers.

You will need to connect the + and - on the amp.

 

Yes this is true, and I understand your previous question now.

Bear in mind I'm still running the factory deck with components up front, which have cross-overs in the mix. Thus the stock door wiring is not going direct to the speakers in the doors, rather they're going to the cross-overs input. At which point NEW wiring was run to both the tweeter and woofer.

Once the new deck and amp is in place, all I need to do is run wire from the amp to the cross-over input.

 

Why would you call putting the xover inside the door, outside the vapor barrier, wrong?

Anyways good work so far. I have never seen that kind of coak and sealer. What is it exactly that you used on the speaker to seal it to your wooden ring? Does it come out of a tube? hehe

 

I'll let MR2NR comment as it was him who brought it up.

That caulk is simply "acoustic" sealant. It is meant to seal spaces or gaps without transmitting vibrations between the items. Screwing a piece of MDF to a metal door could possibly lead to looseness and noise. Put a bead of acoustic caulking and problem solved.(here is some kind, not what I used, but you get the idea www.Titebond.com)

 

Got the front doors done late last night. Here's a shot of the first of two layers of B-Quiet Extreme, which should give a decent acoustic loss factor.

I also placed some B-Quiet on the door panel itself, particularly around the speaker area. Should give it a little more mass.

 

Those doors look sexy now.. Tempting....

 

Nice self-install man, Looks like a pro job.

 

You will need to do something about those large openings.