Sound room
0 Watt CAFz'r
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 43
don't have much experience with diffusion, but from what I have read they look better than they work. diffusers are no replacement for bass traps. They do serve a purpose on the rear wall with a pretty light over them though...
Diffusors are for mid and high frequencies, so they are certainly not a replacement for absorption. But you would be amazed at what they can do. Absorption still comes first, but if you have the time to build them, you would be happy you did. Most of the studios I've seen have them, but I've never been in a home theatre with them. So I hope it works for me.
I spent this weekend getting the laundry room upto speed with the sound room. Things are going pretty well. Laundry room is all framed and partially insulated. The sound room has all the roxul insulation installed and I'm ready for drywall. The bulkhead in this room will act as an additonal bass trap. I also took some shots of one of the light switches and my speaker wire (just for Julian).
Here are a few pics of the bass traps that are installed on both upper corners of the left and right wall. I used Pink Sound batt in this location becuase its more flexible and would fint intot the space easier. Drywall will be install over top of these and then large areas will be cut out and a metal mesh installed to cover the hole.
The areas where no batt has been installed is the future location of my movie posters and there framed. I will be making frames that fit into the wall to highlight the posters.
All of the woodworking parts of this room will have to wait until its warmer. Including the speaker cabinets.
The areas where no batt has been installed is the future location of my movie posters and there framed. I will be making frames that fit into the wall to highlight the posters.
All of the woodworking parts of this room will have to wait until its warmer. Including the speaker cabinets.
Looking good John. My only concern is your light mounting... you may want to reconsider how you have your octagon boxes mounted as they are 1.5" deep and I don't think you're about to do 3 layers of 1/2" drywall or 2 layers of 3/4"
so you should really mount them between pieces of 2x4's so they only stick out 1/2" that way they will be flush with your drywall when you are done
also I don't recall but are you doing a drop down ceiling? t-bar? then you're good... but if you're only doing drywall ceiling you might want to reconsider that junction box in the top right of pic #2 screwed onto the side of your floor joist in post #94... all junction boxes MUST be accessible by electrical code
also pic #1 post #93 the switch picture
PM me if you want to know the rest on that one.( its fine if you plan on framing that wall )
I hope I don't offend you by my comments, just trying to help keep your install electrically safe (after all it is your house and I'm only suggesting safe electrical practice)
so you should really mount them between pieces of 2x4's so they only stick out 1/2" that way they will be flush with your drywall when you are done
also I don't recall but are you doing a drop down ceiling? t-bar? then you're good... but if you're only doing drywall ceiling you might want to reconsider that junction box in the top right of pic #2 screwed onto the side of your floor joist in post #94... all junction boxes MUST be accessible by electrical code
also pic #1 post #93 the switch picture
PM me if you want to know the rest on that one.( its fine if you plan on framing that wall )I hope I don't offend you by my comments, just trying to help keep your install electrically safe (after all it is your house and I'm only suggesting safe electrical practice)
No worries Peter. The lights will actually be mounted to columns that protrude from the wall. Thats why they stick out. They will actually be a little further from the wall then you can see in the photos.
The light switch on the outside of the room is temporarily mounted. The wall was studded today, but the photo I posted was taken a while ago. Everything will be mounted properly when all is said and done.
Ther will be a drop ceiling of sorts. Ut not the kind you buy at Home Depot. I'm making it myself because of my acoustic requirements.
The light switch on the outside of the room is temporarily mounted. The wall was studded today, but the photo I posted was taken a while ago. Everything will be mounted properly when all is said and done.
Ther will be a drop ceiling of sorts. Ut not the kind you buy at Home Depot. I'm making it myself because of my acoustic requirements.
nice... Im glad you actually care about electrical safety not just the theater accoustics
so Im assuming you plan on using the accoustic tiles?
what suggestions do you have for my walls to limit reflections in the mid/high range?
also how deep does a bass trap need to be to be effective? 12" just wont cut it?
so Im assuming you plan on using the accoustic tiles?
what suggestions do you have for my walls to limit reflections in the mid/high range?
also how deep does a bass trap need to be to be effective? 12" just wont cut it?
Last edited by MTA; Feb 21, 2011 at 08:53 PM.
The last thing I want is my house to burn down because of shotty electrical work. Everything will be as sage as I can make it.
I'm making my own ceiling system. It will be a combination of absorption and diffusion panels, covered in cloth.
The bigger you make a bass trap the more bass it will absorb. Pick up 24" center Ruxol batts if you can afford the space. Stack them as high as the ceiling or as high as you can. To be really effective, bass traps need to be placed in more than just the back corners.
For mid and high frequencies, the best place to start is the first reflection point. Use Roxul again, but you only need one full batt. R14 is fine, more would be better, but it may not be realistic to have more than that depth on your wall. Build a frame around the batt to whatever aesthetics you like and cover it with grill cloth. Very easy build.
To find the first reflection point, sit in your preferred seating location and have a friend hold a mirror along o e of the side walls. Move the mirror along the wall until you can see the speakers reflection (left wall for the left speakers reflection). Do this with both walls. Then place the absorption at that location (centered). This is a good starting point.
I'm making my own ceiling system. It will be a combination of absorption and diffusion panels, covered in cloth.
The bigger you make a bass trap the more bass it will absorb. Pick up 24" center Ruxol batts if you can afford the space. Stack them as high as the ceiling or as high as you can. To be really effective, bass traps need to be placed in more than just the back corners.
For mid and high frequencies, the best place to start is the first reflection point. Use Roxul again, but you only need one full batt. R14 is fine, more would be better, but it may not be realistic to have more than that depth on your wall. Build a frame around the batt to whatever aesthetics you like and cover it with grill cloth. Very easy build.
To find the first reflection point, sit in your preferred seating location and have a friend hold a mirror along o e of the side walls. Move the mirror along the wall until you can see the speakers reflection (left wall for the left speakers reflection). Do this with both walls. Then place the absorption at that location (centered). This is a good starting point.
The last thing I want is my house to burn down because of shotty electrical work. Everything will be as sage as I can make it.
I'm making my own ceiling system. It will be a combination of absorption and diffusion panels, covered in cloth.
The bigger you make a bass trap the more bass it will absorb. Pick up 24" center Ruxol batts if you can afford the space. Stack them as high as the ceiling or as high as you can. To be really effective, bass traps need to be placed in more than just the back corners.
For mid and high frequencies, the best place to start is the first reflection point. Use Roxul again, but you only need one full batt. R14 is fine, more would be better, but it may not be realistic to have more than that depth on your wall. Build a frame around the batt to whatever aesthetics you like and cover it with grill cloth. Very easy build.
To find the first reflection point, sit in your preferred seating location and have a friend hold a mirror along o e of the side walls. Move the mirror along the wall until you can see the speakers reflection (left wall for the left speakers reflection). Do this with both walls. Then place the absorption at that location (centered). This is a good starting point.
I'm making my own ceiling system. It will be a combination of absorption and diffusion panels, covered in cloth.
The bigger you make a bass trap the more bass it will absorb. Pick up 24" center Ruxol batts if you can afford the space. Stack them as high as the ceiling or as high as you can. To be really effective, bass traps need to be placed in more than just the back corners.
For mid and high frequencies, the best place to start is the first reflection point. Use Roxul again, but you only need one full batt. R14 is fine, more would be better, but it may not be realistic to have more than that depth on your wall. Build a frame around the batt to whatever aesthetics you like and cover it with grill cloth. Very easy build.
To find the first reflection point, sit in your preferred seating location and have a friend hold a mirror along o e of the side walls. Move the mirror along the wall until you can see the speakers reflection (left wall for the left speakers reflection). Do this with both walls. Then place the absorption at that location (centered). This is a good starting point.
Any type of foam can help. Even curtains or other similar products. It hard to say exactly what to use without hearing your system, so experimentation is key here.
There are also lots of very attractive wall treatment out there. You just have to be willing to pay for them.
There are also lots of very attractive wall treatment out there. You just have to be willing to pay for them.
