Sound room
01-31-2011, 09:37 PM
#21
Sub bass is the hardest thing to get right in a room. Bass traps will help you for sure. Every corner in a room will cause problems. The rear corners should be your place to start. Bass traps need to be LARGE! My room will be using the entire rear wall as a bass trap ( ther will be more than just this one). And it's 14" thick. So imagine a 7th high, 12 ft wide wall of absorption.
Some people will treat a room with curtains, and egg catron foam, or other thin items. Too much of these items will hurt you more than anything. Thin treatments will absorb only mid and high frequencies. Sub bass will be unaffected. So you can imagine how this will hurt your sound.
One solution to poor bass response is using multiple subs. I'm using two subs for this reason, but four subs would be better. You would need to mount one sub along the mid point of each wall. This helps to minimize the comb filtering problem that you're having.
Some people will treat a room with curtains, and egg catron foam, or other thin items. Too much of these items will hurt you more than anything. Thin treatments will absorb only mid and high frequencies. Sub bass will be unaffected. So you can imagine how this will hurt your sound.
One solution to poor bass response is using multiple subs. I'm using two subs for this reason, but four subs would be better. You would need to mount one sub along the mid point of each wall. This helps to minimize the comb filtering problem that you're having.
does this sound like a possible solution? now will there be any effect of the rest of the electrical room being empty? maybe helpfull?
01-31-2011, 10:04 PM
#22
Drawing your room with dimensions will help.
Using the electrical rooms space sounds like it should help. In a way similar to how a diffusor will help mids and highs. Adding stuffing just tricks the low frequencies into thinking the area is longer than it actually is.
Pics will start soon. I post using my iPad for the most part, so I cant add photo's. I also have some CAD drawings with the rooms design. Im building on the fly, so the design is bound to change a little.
Using the electrical rooms space sounds like it should help. In a way similar to how a diffusor will help mids and highs. Adding stuffing just tricks the low frequencies into thinking the area is longer than it actually is.
Pics will start soon. I post using my iPad for the most part, so I cant add photo's. I also have some CAD drawings with the rooms design. Im building on the fly, so the design is bound to change a little.
02-01-2011, 03:06 PM
#24
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Sorry to highjack here... MTA, have you tried working in reverse by putting the sub at your viewing position and then walking around the room until you find the bass response you want in a spot you can put the sub at (no good in front of the door for instance).
Good easy way to find a decent place to put your sub, especially if you have just one viewing spot like a sofa.
Good easy way to find a decent place to put your sub, especially if you have just one viewing spot like a sofa.
02-01-2011, 05:46 PM
#25
Sorry to highjack here... MTA, have you tried working in reverse by putting the sub at your viewing position and then walking around the room until you find the bass response you want in a spot you can put the sub at (no good in front of the door for instance).
Good easy way to find a decent place to put your sub, especially if you have just one viewing spot like a sofa.
Good easy way to find a decent place to put your sub, especially if you have just one viewing spot like a sofa.
02-01-2011, 05:50 PM
#26
With the numbers you provided, you will have some issues around 50hz and 140hz. You may have other problem areas, but without the height, I can't calculate them.
I'm working on my first design/build post. I will show how i worked these numbers out.
Last edited by fozzz; 02-01-2011 at 08:04 PM.
02-01-2011, 08:55 PM
#27
Here is a drawing of my room. The stone walls are the outside lines and the lines just past them represent the 2x4 studds. You can see all the basic measurements of the room. Room height is about 7ft. The large yellow section at the back of the room is the rooms rear bass trap. The screen will be mounted on the opposite wall.
02-01-2011, 09:01 PM
#28
This is the calculation I use to figure out where some of my problem areas will be. I just used excel to make it look neat. Any where you see a the same of very similar frequency in each coloum is where problem are likely to happen. Its an easy calculation.
1130 (speed of sound) / 2x room length in feet
the first set of numbers are the room dimensions (16.05ft, 11ft, 7ft).
Each mode is simply a mulitple of that frequency.
The worst shapped room would be a cube, because all the modes would be same. This would cause serious peeks and nulls. An ideal room will have no same length walls or walls that are multiples of each other. Odd shaped rooms would be even better, but more rooms are rectangular, so I assuming that much.
My room with use angles and coloum protrusions that I will get into on a later date.
1130 (speed of sound) / 2x room length in feet
the first set of numbers are the room dimensions (16.05ft, 11ft, 7ft).
Each mode is simply a mulitple of that frequency.
The worst shapped room would be a cube, because all the modes would be same. This would cause serious peeks and nulls. An ideal room will have no same length walls or walls that are multiples of each other. Odd shaped rooms would be even better, but more rooms are rectangular, so I assuming that much.
My room with use angles and coloum protrusions that I will get into on a later date.
02-01-2011, 10:35 PM
#29
What is the ceiling height?
With the numbers you provided, you will have some issues around 50hz and 140hz. You may have other problem areas, but without the height, I can't calculate them.
I'm working on my first design/build post. I will show how i worked these numbers out.
With the numbers you provided, you will have some issues around 50hz and 140hz. You may have other problem areas, but without the height, I can't calculate them.
I'm working on my first design/build post. I will show how i worked these numbers out.
it's right there in the middle of the drawing... but since you missed it, it is 90.5"
02-01-2011, 10:45 PM
#30
Sorry to highjack here... MTA, have you tried working in reverse by putting the sub at your viewing position and then walking around the room until you find the bass response you want in a spot you can put the sub at (no good in front of the door for instance).
Good easy way to find a decent place to put your sub, especially if you have just one viewing spot like a sofa.
Good easy way to find a decent place to put your sub, especially if you have just one viewing spot like a sofa.
no worries, I'm always up for suggestions to make this a better experience.
I dont usually get much time to play, so I went kinda backwards as you mentioned.
although, last night I started watching SAW final chapter.... holy @$%%E^%^*&$%^&$&( lol
yeah its some sick $#!t
the sound, how I have it set up now, is actually not bad... when I was doing the drawing, I noticed that I had moved my speakers around to physically align them ( because I can) but I had forgotten to adjust the distances in my receiver, now that really helped to get the life back into the sound.
now I do need to add some high frequency treatment also as I have a hard time controling some mid/high frequencies( even with the built in eq)... but that might also be resolved when I add some absorbant material behind the front stage to get rid of that reflection and maybe some kind of thick area rug( we'll see how the wife feels about this ) lol
