gotovato

the box will be custom made by a member on this forum. It'll be made to spec so I'm not worried about that. also I'll have to sound deaden my trunk not a big deal.

peelaudio

There is a new versin of Jl Audio w6 which works in smaller enclosure than previous one.
Consider this with custom built enclosure not prefab

gotovato

I think I've got myself set on a JL 10w7 in a custom built box. I picked up a nice amp to run it. Should be perfect.

Sonic

iTrader: (1)

JL recommends seal cabinet for this sub and ported not recommended, have you tried or know of anyone who tried it ported?

Spun

I have to agree with whoever said Digital Designs
My last system was 2 2512's running off a DD S2a
My current setup is 2 3512's running off a SAZ3000D
I wont use anything else.
IMO ported is the way to go, fiberglass looks nice but good old MDF is tried tested and true
Your going to need a bigger alt, no question about it.
If you don't one day you'll be siitting at light the bass will kick in and the car will die, not to mention you'll look like Stu's Disco Palace driving down the road.

Oh yes and go a little over board with the dynamat/hushmat or whatever you choose to use, I laugh everytime someone is sitting at a light and rattle from the car is drowning out the bass,
Second Skin is an awsome product but its a little costly
Vehicle Sound Deadening Materials for Noise Reduction, and Thermal Insulation. Call 800 679-8511. | Second Skin Audio, Made in the USA.

gotovato

My substage has been decided. I've gone with a JL hd750/1 amp to push a JL 12w7 in a custom to spec ported box. I've gone this route because it fits my trunk and keeps me under 1500rms. The 12w7 is perfect because it's got great sq and spl. As far as power goes ill have the big 3 done soon. I also got myself a kinetik hc1200 which will go in as soon as I can figure out how to setup my isolator. I'm testing out using a ford starter relay which in theory is the same as a 100$ battery isolator. Power in, power out, and some sort of trigger. I tried using my remote wire but it wasn't enough to trigger it so i'm going to run a second "remote" off a 12v power wire behind my hu. The power wire which turns my hu on should be perfect. if anyone has any better idea's I'd like to hear them and again thank you all for the input so far.

gotovato

I've also managed to find an alternator upgrade. Currently mine is 85amps. My upgrade will be 130amps and it's going to cost me anywhere from 40-80$ for the alternator. With the kinetik it should be more then enough for 1350rms.

VWdude

you can use a relay for the isolator. The relay can be switched from the remote wire, and powered from your starting battery or from your distribution block.

Nice choice on the W7. I would have gone 10" on a W7 as it will play as low as most 12" subs, but will still be tight like a 10".

Ive had some pretty heavy duty systems. I had a 135amp alternator and big 3, but never a second battery or cap. Be careful when having an alt built, some will PEAK at 130 amps but at idle drops down pretty low. This is where you need the extra power, so have them test it once its installed to see how it is with the system on.

Now on to the sound damping and front stage...

gotovato

The 130amp alternator is actually a factory stock Chrysler alternator not a custom one or anything so I'm sure it'll be good. I was trying to find a 10w7 but couldn't get ahold of one. The 12 came easy so I took it. As far as next step after I figure out my isolator/relay will be front stage/deadening. Also I tried using remote to trigger the relay but it wasn't enough. Before I upgrade my front stage I MIGHT upgrade my headunit. My current unit is ok. 4volt preamps with a 3 ways parametric eq. I'm looking for more eq though and time alignment. I was thinking either a higher end excelon(I have a kenwood excelon currently) or a clarion cz702 or pioneer deh-80prs. If the extra money is worth it for the pioneer I may take it. Either that or do my front stage first. No sure there yet. As far as front stage I was thinking either JL c5 components, focal components in the same price rage, or possible even hertz components. I don't have alot of experience with highend components so I'll need some advice/input there aswell. First off I need to finish my big 3 and trunk battery install. Deadening I'll do the full doors when I do my front stage, and full trunk will be last. I currently have infinity components as front stage but they suck. Any input is always nice thanks again

VWdude

you have some good ideas. I was never a fan of having too many features built into my head unit. In one of my previous systems I had the Alpine CDA-7995 which had NO built in amp. I bypassed its built in EQ and ran a Phoenix Gold EQ-232 30 band EQ. The way I look at it, is that most brands can do something well, but dont expect them to do everything well. just because they make a good head unit, dont expect the EQ to be great. Also, if its supposed to fit into the head unit, dont expect great components.

With that said, I say upgrade the front stage first. Your ideas are all good Inot sure JL speakrs are at the same level as the other brands mentioned). I personally really like dynaudio.