Toys
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there is no such thing as wire or anything in audio for that matter, that is too exspensive, exspensive is in the eyes of the person paying for it, the law of diminishing returns doesnt apply in audio, imo. mt take on wire, i just replaced the rca cables in my car, and there was a difference in sound, no question, profound difference, no, but definintely different. i think it depends how in tune and how well you know the way your stereo sounds, many may not know a difference. i spend a fightening amount of time in my car listening to it, and know everything about the way it sounds and am able to notuice subtle changes like changing wire. wire is like an eq of sorts, they will change the sound in there own way, its if the change is beneficial that matters
I use Monster Cable M10.2 speaker wire in my car.
To date, I've compared it in listening tests with the following:
1.) 12 awg extension cord from Canadian Tire
2.) Kimber Cable 8 conductor pure silver speaker wire.
3.) Purist Audio Designs Colosus speaker wire
4.) 16 awg 6N copper speaker wire (bulk spool)
Here's how I ranked them as used with MY gear in MY car. (your own car may be different)
1.) PAD Colosus - The most natural sounding cable. It has a warm dark sound that brings a rich quality to music. The details are very easily heard, but in a laid back manner that doesn't require effort to listen to. The down side is that this cable is HUGE.
2.) Monster M10.2 - This cable had less detail, with a brighter sound than the Colosus. The margin between the M10.2 and the Colosus is pretty small in my setup. If I had tested with my newly aquired H900 (resolves more detail) I might find the differences to be greater. But, for the money and size, the M10.2 is my bang for the buck leader. Of note, it played equally well on the tweeters, mids, and midbass.
3.) 12awg extension cord - This stuff sounded fine, it was just lacking in detail when compared to the other wire. The difference in my system was notable, but not painful when switching between wires.
4.) Kimber Cable 8 conductor pure silver - This stuff just didn't work in my sysytem. It resolves more detail than the 12 awg extension cord, and the M10.2, but it's too bright for my taste. Again, in my system it didn't work. I have heard it in other home systems, and it was awesome. With my combination of gear it didn't seem to fit. The sound is detailed and airy, but lacking in warmth.
Now, to open this thread I put a link to some product. This is the next step for me in my system tuning. Note that I said "tuning". In the same manner that the Kimber Cable didn't work in my car, the MIT networks may not work in my car. Yes they are expensive, but I have played with MIT stuff before. Every product that I have heard from Bruce Brisson, I have not been disappointed in. This is not a blind leap of faith for me, I am aware that the results may possibly not suit the system that I have.
For those that are serious about high end sound in a car, contact Ron Buffington. The guy has a wealth of knowledge that could benefit you if you ask the right questions, and recieve them with an open mind.
Adam
To date, I've compared it in listening tests with the following:
1.) 12 awg extension cord from Canadian Tire
2.) Kimber Cable 8 conductor pure silver speaker wire.
3.) Purist Audio Designs Colosus speaker wire
4.) 16 awg 6N copper speaker wire (bulk spool)
Here's how I ranked them as used with MY gear in MY car. (your own car may be different)
1.) PAD Colosus - The most natural sounding cable. It has a warm dark sound that brings a rich quality to music. The details are very easily heard, but in a laid back manner that doesn't require effort to listen to. The down side is that this cable is HUGE.
2.) Monster M10.2 - This cable had less detail, with a brighter sound than the Colosus. The margin between the M10.2 and the Colosus is pretty small in my setup. If I had tested with my newly aquired H900 (resolves more detail) I might find the differences to be greater. But, for the money and size, the M10.2 is my bang for the buck leader. Of note, it played equally well on the tweeters, mids, and midbass.
3.) 12awg extension cord - This stuff sounded fine, it was just lacking in detail when compared to the other wire. The difference in my system was notable, but not painful when switching between wires.
4.) Kimber Cable 8 conductor pure silver - This stuff just didn't work in my sysytem. It resolves more detail than the 12 awg extension cord, and the M10.2, but it's too bright for my taste. Again, in my system it didn't work. I have heard it in other home systems, and it was awesome. With my combination of gear it didn't seem to fit. The sound is detailed and airy, but lacking in warmth.
Now, to open this thread I put a link to some product. This is the next step for me in my system tuning. Note that I said "tuning". In the same manner that the Kimber Cable didn't work in my car, the MIT networks may not work in my car. Yes they are expensive, but I have played with MIT stuff before. Every product that I have heard from Bruce Brisson, I have not been disappointed in. This is not a blind leap of faith for me, I am aware that the results may possibly not suit the system that I have.
For those that are serious about high end sound in a car, contact Ron Buffington. The guy has a wealth of knowledge that could benefit you if you ask the right questions, and recieve them with an open mind.
Adam
^ And I am such a Kimber guy ... give me the detail, other cables attenuate the HF more (hiding the truth), but yeah the Kimber can be a little sterile and lacking warmth (mostly because it breaks down the tones to discrete notes rather than mish mashing them together), but man o man it does the human voice well.
I disagree philosophically, when there is a cable/ HU/ Speaker you want, but can not afford, that product is then too expensive. This issue is relative to the person making the value judgment (I have heard the F#1 and want it, but I do not make enough money to buy it). It is also too expensive from an absolute point of view if nobody buys it due to low perceived value to price ratio (a $4000 hammer is such an example). The F#1 components fall under a high relative cost to most, but certainly most would agree (if they hear it) that it ‘may’ be worth it from an absolute point of view.
there is no such thing as wire or anything in audio for that matter, that is too exspensive,
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