vented boxes in my doors
The concept is interesting and has been tried and tried again. However, generally speaking the peoples have found that the effort isn't worth the reward. IB in the doors is the way to go. Build a thick baffle, sound deaden (which you have to do anyways) and seal up the doors and you're there. The extra weight, hassles of building and installing an enclosure in the doors is generally considered a waste of time, resources and energy. I've actually tried it out as well many moons ago in a truck I had where I cut the doors all up to do such a thing. There was hardly any noticable difference......... may have been worse actually and my doors were no happy about the increased weight.
Just my penny.
Just my penny.
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i guess i just dont understand how using a speaker in the most ideal application specified by the manufacturer could possibly not be worth it, if that were the case why arent home speakers just mounted infinite baffle in the walls, and very few of the speakers that i have researched actually would ever recommend an ib application over a properly sealed or ported box, imagine you were going to use the speakers you have in your car in your home, would you just mount them in the walls, probobly not you would research your speakers to determinte the best application, and i suspect its not ib, and besides isnt the relentless pursuit of great sound in your car worth the extra time to apply them in the most idea way.
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Most car audio midrange and midbass drivers are optomized for IB use. The manufacturers expect that 99.9% of consumers will run them this way. Many of these same drivers may work well enclosed too but few are optomized for it.
Home drivers on the other hand are developed to be enclosed usually but there is an entire market of high end inwall drivers that specifically want to see a 16" studwall as their enclosure.
I'm not saying don't play with the idea but generally an enclosure is used to add bottom end to any driver and if you are running a separate woofer then it is somewhat less important.
And yes an enclosure that alters the bottom end of a drivers response will absolutely alter the top end response as well.
Should I choose to run my 8s in my doors, they will be IB.
Home drivers on the other hand are developed to be enclosed usually but there is an entire market of high end inwall drivers that specifically want to see a 16" studwall as their enclosure.
I'm not saying don't play with the idea but generally an enclosure is used to add bottom end to any driver and if you are running a separate woofer then it is somewhat less important.
And yes an enclosure that alters the bottom end of a drivers response will absolutely alter the top end response as well.
Should I choose to run my 8s in my doors, they will be IB.
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pleae explain to me how tuning for the low end of the midbass will affect the top end response, and if you were to plot virtually all 5.25" and 6.5" midranges and you will see that they will virtually all work better in sealed or vented, especialy in power handling and undesirable excusrsion, if you can minimize excursion at tuning frequncy, say 60hz, you will have less excusion at that freq, thereby minimizing excursion will provide you with better lowend control and sq. and assuming that most people will be using a hi-pass filter at say around 50hz your lineraity at the tuning freq will far surpass that of ib, and too much excusion below tuning freq will be controlled by hi sloped x-over, i dont know i guess we will just agree to disagree, in an application of tuning midrange your not adding bottom end but trying to get better cone control at lower freq by tuning to a particualr freq minimizing excusion, less excusion with better midbass and linearity, and awsome power handling at low freq, a trade i take any time
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Originally posted by defro:
pleae explain to me how tuning for the low end of the midbass will affect the top end response, and if you were to plot virtually all 5.25" and 6.5" midranges and you will see that they will virtually all work better in sealed or vented, especialy in power handling and undesirable excusrsion, if you can minimize excursion at tuning frequncy, say 60hz, you will have less excusion at that freq, thereby minimizing excursion will provide you with better lowend control and sq. and assuming that most people will be using a hi-pass filter at say around 50hz your lineraity at the tuning freq will far surpass that of ib, and too much excusion below tuning freq will be controlled by hi sloped x-over, i dont know i guess we will just agree to disagree, in an application of tuning midrange your not adding bottom end but trying to get better cone control at lower freq by tuning to a particualr freq minimizing excusion, less excusion with better midbass and linearity, and awsome power handling at low freq, a trade i take any time
pleae explain to me how tuning for the low end of the midbass will affect the top end response, and if you were to plot virtually all 5.25" and 6.5" midranges and you will see that they will virtually all work better in sealed or vented, especialy in power handling and undesirable excusrsion, if you can minimize excursion at tuning frequncy, say 60hz, you will have less excusion at that freq, thereby minimizing excursion will provide you with better lowend control and sq. and assuming that most people will be using a hi-pass filter at say around 50hz your lineraity at the tuning freq will far surpass that of ib, and too much excusion below tuning freq will be controlled by hi sloped x-over, i dont know i guess we will just agree to disagree, in an application of tuning midrange your not adding bottom end but trying to get better cone control at lower freq by tuning to a particualr freq minimizing excusion, less excusion with better midbass and linearity, and awsome power handling at low freq, a trade i take any time
On the other hand I am going to be using sealed enclosures on my car but it is a very unusual application [img]graemlins/thumb.gif[/img]
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i would like to see the parameters for the speakers you are talking about, and in what way is aperiodic anyway like ib, aperiodic works through resitive tuning, are you saying that all speaker manufactuers assume that their speakers are going ib, none of them assume that people will apply their products correctly, and exactly how did you compare responses in the speakers you checked, how did you check the sealed vs ported vs infinite baffle responses. did you ever look at almost all of the properly built kick pods, they are virtually all sealed, so it is very commonplace, eldridges midbass pods-sealed, biggs pods-sealed and these are world champions, they must have some clue as to the advantages of both alignments over ib
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I just compared them on a box design program that does full range plots. Pretty much all CAR SPEAKER MANUFACTURERS assume their speakers will be used IB. Alot of the kick panels on the soundoff circuit are actually vented back into the kickpanel are which vents to the outside or up into the A pillar etc.
Yes aperiodic is more similar to IB than any other type of enclosure. Basically it's IB but uses the resistive tuning to flatten the impedence curve.
I stand by my earlier statement that almost all setups on the competitive circuit use IB.
Don't get me wrong, Experiment away, who knows it may sound better, but be prepared if it doesn't. Like I said my car will use sealed boxes for the mids, but I am going to be using 4 mids and either 2 or 4 tweeters for the front stage. Of course I will need to do alot of experimenting to get it right, but it has been proven to work in vehicles similar to mine.
Yes aperiodic is more similar to IB than any other type of enclosure. Basically it's IB but uses the resistive tuning to flatten the impedence curve.
I stand by my earlier statement that almost all setups on the competitive circuit use IB.
Don't get me wrong, Experiment away, who knows it may sound better, but be prepared if it doesn't. Like I said my car will use sealed boxes for the mids, but I am going to be using 4 mids and either 2 or 4 tweeters for the front stage. Of course I will need to do alot of experimenting to get it right, but it has been proven to work in vehicles similar to mine.
Trust us........... you're text-booking. The real world is different then numbers on a page. For example, ever seen a book written on how to understand women?!??! Real world is complex and annoying at times. And that's why we have beer. Mind you, it's only 9:53 AM and I have no idea why I'm thinking about beer. Then again, I have no idea on why I'm rambling on like this and totally derailing this thread with stupid blathering. [img]graemlins/boring.gif[/img]
On another note, could it actually be that DWVW, DUKK and myself have unity on an issue?!?! Ha, ha, ha.............. damn. Uhmmm, actually building a 3/4" thick MDF enclosure is the only way to go. The best way to attach it to your doors is to nail gun it from the outside. [img]graemlins/thumb.gif[/img]
[ February 12, 2004, 09:02 AM: Message edited by: dawgsbreakfast ]
On another note, could it actually be that DWVW, DUKK and myself have unity on an issue?!?! Ha, ha, ha.............. damn. Uhmmm, actually building a 3/4" thick MDF enclosure is the only way to go. The best way to attach it to your doors is to nail gun it from the outside. [img]graemlins/thumb.gif[/img]
[ February 12, 2004, 09:02 AM: Message edited by: dawgsbreakfast ]


