You just want everything closed, don't you

 

i'm not

but i do not see why there testing an amp that is no longer being made to one that is

 

Why not?
3k vs 3k.
Testing 2 strapped 3kw amps against a single 5kw amp (Z1a) doesn't exactly seem like an apples-to-apples comparison IMO.
Even though the Z1 is no longer made, a rather large proportion of competitors still run them and win, which suggests that it's still up there with the best. And it's probably not that hard to find a Z1 to borrow for testing.

Only makes sense to me.
Guess people could always try to find some other 3kw amp to test against, like the vfl 200.1, Mmats 3500 or whatever. I'm just throwing out ideas as I'm rather impartial to whatever results come of all this.

 

I'd like to see the SAZ-3000D up against a Z1, or a pair against a pair like savage said... And I'd like to see it done objectively, unbiased, and methodically. It'd be cooler to see a Z1 against a 3000D instead of two 1500Ds since each amp would be presented with the same impedances, rather than having to mix and match so each sees the same.

One step at a time though, I guess we'll have to wait till Jordy is done with the 1500s... Assuming you (Jacob) are game for firing another thousand or so dollars worth of product north of the border.

Believe it or not, there are many knowledgeable people out here in the west (not necessarily including myself), and not everyone wants to see Sundown fail. I was probably the first guy up here to run a pair of 1500Ds, and I was satisfied when I was able to get their rated power out of them.

For example, the riprock guys certainly know what they're talking about, and have quality equipment to do a solid test. Whether or not they have the time or ambition to perform it, I have no idea, but there ARE competent people here. It wouldn't be hard to find a Z1 or two to go head-to-head with either . I've even got a TL and meters, and I'd offer to test, but since I've owned the stuff before, any positive results would probably be attributed to bias.

Food for thought.

 

i like seeing test done

i'm sq not spl

so on that note ,not knowing the # of the amps .now i see why you are testing the z1 and not the z1a
i do not know the big amps for spl but i have looked at going into it

so pls test and post

ps at what size of amp do you need the 2nd battery set up ?

 

I suggest "mandatory" electrical upgrades whenever a customer wants anything larger than the SAZ-1500D, or any other amp that is much larger than 1000 watts. Even for the 1500D... if the customer is playing the it at full blast for long periods on extremely bass heavy material it can exceed the limits of many stock electrical setups with tiny alternators and/or tiny stock batteries. It's simple to see why... if you add 160 amps of current draw to a system with a 70 amp alternator you will kill your battery, and maybe your amp, rather quickly.

For an SQ guy such as yourself you could *easily* run a 1500D on a bone stock electrical setup. Since it's not likely that you will run your sub 20 dB above the level of your front stage you will never see 160 amps of draw from the amp. Hundreds of people run 1500Ds on stock electrical setups and they work great for them.

As for the SAZ-3000D I even put it in my brochure and on my site that a larger alternator and additional batteries are a must. If you are buying a 3kw amp I assume it is because you plan to use the power, or you could have saved alot of money on a smaller amp Most customers and dealers agree and add electrical upgrades before putting such a large amp in the car. With 300+ amps of current draw at full output the 3000D would bring a factory charging system to it's knees in most any vehicle.

 

That would be a better test, I agree. I would still be rather disappointed if the Z1 wasn't able to eek out a better score than the SAZ-3000D -- it's more expensive and has more "stuff" inside, it very well should produce more power. I would expect the difference to be very much in line with the cost difference between the amps.

I will consider sending 3000Ds for testing, although, as with the 1500Ds quite a few people have tested them in the USA. Why these results are no longer credible when read in Canada to some folks, I don't know. I could see if I did ALL of this testing myself with no third parties to confirm... but I've done very little of it, most of it came from customers and I posted it on my forum to share results with other customers.

The only testing I *did* do that is actually posted on my forum for potential customers to see shows about 3200 watts @ 1.33 reactive from a 3000D and a hair over 1100 @ 1.08 reactive on the 1000D. Seems pretty reasonable to me.

I did hear back from a street dB drag guy that told me he got 3700 in his 1-battery setup from a 3000D, he tested it last week. I had nothing to do with the test so I don't know much about it -- actual load, DCR, voltage drop, distortion level, etc... but he liked what he saw and will likely be purchasing more for finals if his finances allow him to do so. I'm not making any claims... just relaying what someone told me they measured, and they did it with a reputable USA dB Drag Competitor right there watching -- I can't tell you who until after Finals is over as people like to keep things on the down low when prepping for such events.

I'm sure more testing will come out that will verify the previous stack of test data. I realize that Team Riprock has a good reputation and obviously they aren't stupid... but anyone can test something wrong on any given day.

The only part about that test that *really* bothers me is that nobody even tried to change settings... even though mountains of test data is completely contrary to what they saw. If your test is totally different than all other data ever collected... it's worth trying again and trying to figure out why... that is just good procedure. I would assume that when tweaking their own system for a show they probably try tweaking darn near every setting on every piece of equipment in the vehicle to see if it helps!

ANYHOW... I guess thats about all I have to say right now Just waiting on Jordy to fire up his amps.

 

i see you have not looked at my link LOL
the alt is a 220 then the bettery is red 2150 with 2 runs of 1/0 to the back of the suv to 3 amps and an air pump

 

Hah! I totally missed that You could run some solid power with a 220 amp alternator and a nice battery like that.

 

you guys are hardcore
hardcore to the max
every time there is a post its a ****in book