jkraft

Alright my brother set up his car stereo and i have now inherited it. I also got a new set of 6x9's. I know my new 6x9's are underpowered and i was wondering what parts i can keep and which i need to replace. Here are the specs.

DECK
KD-LH300

Power Output: 200W Max. (50W x 4)
Gold-Plated Line Output Terminals (2 pairs)
4V Line Output Level

AMP
KAC-7201

Max Power Output 800 W × 1
Rated Power Output
Normal (4 Ω) (20 Hz – 20 kHz, 0.08 % THD) 150 W × 2
Normal (4 Ω) (DIN : 45324 , +B = 14.4V) 150 W × 2
Normal (2 Ω) (1 kHz, 0.8 % THD) 230 W × 2
Bridged (4 Ω) (1 kHz, 0.8 % THD) 460 W × 1
Frequency Response (+0, –3 dB) 5 Hz – 50 kHz
Sensitivity (rated output) (MAX.)0.2 V
Sensitivity (rated output) (MIN.)5.0 V
Signal to Noise Ratio 100 dB
Input Impedance 10 kΩ
Low Pass Filter Frequency (18 dB/oct.) 50 – 200 Hz (variable)
High Pass Filter Frequency (12 dB/oct.) 150 Hz
Bass Boost Circuit (90 Hz) KAC-7201 OFF / +12 dB
Operating Voltage 14.4 V (11 – 16 V allowable)
Current Consumption (4 Ω, 10 % THD) 43 A
Dimensions (W × H × D) 285 × 57 × 305 mm
.11-1/4 × 2-1/4 × 12 inch
Weight 3.32 kg (7.3 lbs)

Subwoofer
12” Sub (Kicker Comp)

SPL 1W/1M 88.6db
Revc 3.79 ohm
Rms Wats 150
Freq Response, Hz 27 – 500


Rear 6x9
Infinity Kappa 693.7i

Power Handling RMS 110 Watts
Power Handling, Peak 330 Watts
Sensitivity 95dB
Frequency Response 35Hz - 25kHz
Mounting Depth 3-3/16"
Impedance 2 Ohms

Currently the 6x9's are hooked directly up to the deck (don't sound very good at higher volumes start poping). And the subwoofer seems underpowered. I guess he used to bridge the sub on the amp but it would blow so now i am currently running it off the left channel since the warrenty is up and can't go get a new one if i break it.

Any suggestions would be really appreciated.

Jordon


P.S I was thinking of connecting the new 6x9s to the current amp and getting new amp just for the sub. What do you think? I can afford about
$500 so please no redo's .

MR2NR

iTrader: (66)

My bet is that there is nothing wrong with the amp. Your amp by the looks of it has waaaaay too much power for the sub. Too much power = blown speakers. Running that amp in mono is 460w rms of power into a 150w rms subwoofer. See the problem? Get a sub like the Digital Designs DD1512 to match to this amp. Sell the Kicker to a friend.

www.ddaudio.com

Second option is to get a far smaller amp and use the Kenwood on your 6x9's. If you want bass and lots of it though, this may not be the ideal way to go. For the 6x9's you do not need a monster amp at all. The small JBL CS60.2 would be ideal for this application given the 6x9's you have. Total investment is going to be right around the $$$ you want to spend.

jkraft

Dang that was fast.

You don't think that my kentwood amp would blow my 6x9's? 130 to 150 that is a extra 20 watts.
Also if i do hook this up like that should i set the amp to HPF (High pass filter) or should i turn it off? the speakers have a "passive crossover" ( i am new and still learning terms) so not sure. I will most likely try both but just wondering.

Also I should mention i have a sealed box, really nice, 1 1/4" think really well built for the sub.

Any other suggestions?

canadian123

I think that amp and sub are fine you have head room which means you can turn the gain down on the amp drawing less power to run that sub 100%. Yes you can get a bigger sub but I dont see why unless you want to buy a new sub.

Power does not blow subs distortion blows subs and having that much power with that sub in a sealed box will give you great control just make sure the amp gets tuned properly.

MR2NR

iTrader: (66)

^^^ I disagree. My beleif is that in all cases heat kills speakers. You can run a fully clipped (totally distorted) signal into a speaker all day long and it will not blow IF the speakers thermal and mechanical limits are not broken. Excessive power creates excessive heat. Clipping creates excessive heat. Heat is the killer in both cases. Whatever the case is though, that is waaaaay too much power for that sub and that is why your brother blew it in the first place. Yes turning the gain down is a very good idea but it will not save humpty from his appointment with the wall.

canadian123

what you say is very true if he was just pinning the gain and calling it a day if he dialed the gain down and had it tuned properly he would never have a problem but the moment the gain gets turned up to far that sub will bite the dust quick.

MR2NR

iTrader: (66)

Which also means that it can have nothing to do with clipping. The longer something is played, the more heat is created. Even if that gain is turned way down, chances are better than the average bear that the coil was melted beyond recognition due to excessive heat build up in the rather small voice coil of this particular sub. Yes you can turn that gain down all you want but if the head unit has a strong enough output voltage (which in this case it most certainly does), that signal coming into the amp is still going to be enough to drive that amp into full output with relative ease.

Clipping did not kill Kenny here, too much power did.