Garvok

or u could cut the size of the box in half, mount the subs in a isobaric push pull config?
or go with a TL box...alot more tedious to build though

i would just reccomend a 4th order vented box, tune it up and away u go.....
too much thought goin on here

Lord Huggington

iTrader: (1)

I can fit 2 across with 1" MDF, with the trunk cut up the MDF would be hugging the woofers inside, so 2 is ideal. No need to do a push-pull (although I likee what a calculator modeled for 4 18's in a push-pull), that would require 2 amps because of phase. A TL would be a headache.

I was thinking about making a sealed box with extended lips coming off the baffle, and I'd glue/resin a ported box to the front because I'd keep the sealed part the same size, just change up the size of the ported area and the port itself for tuning. Apparently for a low -3dB the sealed box has to be as big as possible.

There's lots of space, 60 x 20 x 38.

What would be a good port size to use, as much as possible? The ported box could grosse 10.5 cubes before port & displacement. Not sure what ratio I should try for.

What kind of saw would I need to cut up the metal in the trunk? Would it make sparks fly and potentially light things on fire?

Lord Huggington

iTrader: (1)

Yarr.

RLA

I know how everyone hates it when someone drags up an old ancient post.......but came across this box and was intrigued. Was this monster ever built or graphed out for response? I almost think this could fit/work as a blowthrough in my extended cab Ranger. Any info would be great!

jcarver1112

lol holly crap, i just signed up here and opened this post and started writting up a huge long list of stuff for this guy to get to this last post and realized its over a year old... d*amn d*amn... thought I could help this guy... oh well here is the suff i was writting up lol ... d*amn

• displacement on that sub is probably between .1 - .2
• If you don't own the sub better can be had
• PSI has two sites, PSI Car Audio | Subwoofers in all colors and flavors! Fix My Speaker - Custom Subwoofer Rebuilds, Repairs, and Supplies!
• If you blew that xxx on less than 1500 w it was from clipping, based on the amp shutting off I'm 90% sure it was from stock electrical and your amp going into protect from low voltage. Also if it wasn't getting lower than 30hz then that box was probably tuned higher than 36
• Personally I dont like port to the side
• counter sinking is for visual only and is a PITA to get out
• If you have a gross measurements of 49.5 x 27.5 x 20.75 you have 13.9 ft gross to work with. Way more than you need for a single 18. (could have read your measurements wrong)
• That dayton sub would be fine with 8-10 in of port area per ft.
• Dayton sub will be a huge downgrade from a xxx on 1500w.
• HDC3's aren't great either, there are other good options out there for the same money.
• 145 is loud, at least for those who still have there hearing left
• Keep your total amp output under 800-1000 on that stock alt. You can get a good battery to help out a little.
• A very cheap budget amp would be an Audiopipe. Its not a sundown but I've seen them run decent and last for a while. Try the APSM line.
• Correct a 4th order will take more power to reach mechanical limits of a sub but that means you will reach thermal faster. Normally not a good thing sense power is the post $$$ part of the build.
• If you want flat from 20-60 you need to consider a 6th order
• isobaric compounds are purely for sound quality, dont waste your time
• lol yes sparks in the car = fire... done it on several occasions in our durby and race cars lol.. good times