2 sub system vs 4 sub system
11-20-2009, 05:47 PM
#11
Personally, i like 2 big *** subs, a big *** box, and a big *** amp, but in reality, i have to settle for a medium sized sub (12), a smallish sealed box, and a big *** amp! Still sounds great, and gets plenty loud. Life's a biotch when you need a trunk!
11-20-2009, 07:32 PM
#12
Type-R's don't sound good and adding 2 more will make you cringe. Try 2 Type-X 12's if you're staying with Alpine. Morel has really good SQ subs, I've heard a $250,000 show escalade with like 8 sets of 6.5's and a bunch of subs in the back in a blowthrough it was the best I've ever heard.
11-20-2009, 11:27 PM
#13
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 7
i get you saying type X is better but im not talking about buying myself into the best system... i have already spent the money on the type R's and want to improve the one i have without wasting the money i already invested... and its a 4 door sedan
11-21-2009, 12:29 AM
#14
You may want to consider this as well. Having smaller than required boxes for the subs you have, will deter the subs from giving you their full potential, so having small boxes which save space may yield 50% of those subs potential. If you get a bigger box you will get more output and tonality. Having four subs starving in smaller than optimal enclosures may yield worse results than having two subs in optimal size box. Is your current box sealed or ported, if ported is it done properly and is it close to subs required specs? Confucious say the sub is only as good as the box it's in. Consider possible impedance issue with your current amp by adding two more subs. Do you know if your impedance is optimal right now? And having more subs, and still having to turn down the bass to balance the sound system defeats the purpose of having more subs. Working with what you have, you may want to try using a subsonic filter(25-35hz) if your amp has one, as that may give you better results due to increased efficiency.
Getting more power may require electrical upgrades like new bigger wires, a better/bigger/another battery, and/or bigger alternator, and all that so that you will actually feed the amps properly so that they give you the power. Having more amps starving will not be better than one amp optimally fed as your current electrical supply will remain the same whether you get more amps or not. Choking amps and working them hard will not give you the results you want and will not keep amps working for long. If you dont already have an ANL type fuse on at least four gauge wire, consider getting one, cause the glass fuse comes in 80A max, and they dont always blow, but rather melt increasing resistance and not passing the current demanded by the amps. If you have no caps and your system dims your headlights, you have to look over your electrical. The voltage goes down too much, rendering your amp to half it's potential, and it just spirals down from there. So before getting more gear, I'd make sure I got good electrical to back it up, and everything is being utilized to their full potential.
Getting more power may require electrical upgrades like new bigger wires, a better/bigger/another battery, and/or bigger alternator, and all that so that you will actually feed the amps properly so that they give you the power. Having more amps starving will not be better than one amp optimally fed as your current electrical supply will remain the same whether you get more amps or not. Choking amps and working them hard will not give you the results you want and will not keep amps working for long. If you dont already have an ANL type fuse on at least four gauge wire, consider getting one, cause the glass fuse comes in 80A max, and they dont always blow, but rather melt increasing resistance and not passing the current demanded by the amps. If you have no caps and your system dims your headlights, you have to look over your electrical. The voltage goes down too much, rendering your amp to half it's potential, and it just spirals down from there. So before getting more gear, I'd make sure I got good electrical to back it up, and everything is being utilized to their full potential.
Last edited by Sasha; 11-21-2009 at 12:47 AM.
11-21-2009, 09:27 AM
#15
I don't think the time delay thing is going to be an issue because they're gonig in your trunk, right? I'm not sure, but its just my thinking that you won't hear (or probably won't hear) a difference. plus I think everyone is forgetting to mention the best pro, theoretically or course, which is more bass.
11-22-2009, 08:50 PM
#18
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 7
Sasha, all that electrical stuff sounds like their could be some improvements... i have a capacitor but if i bump really loud the headlights do dim... is it possible to just take ur car to a shop and get them to just like tune everything for you make sure ur system is running to its full potential? how much u think they would charge for something like that?
the enclosure is a bassworks push post... this design i saw if i upgrade had like 2 slots in the top and 2 in the front so once in the trunk it would bump skyward (i was unsure about) as well as towards the driver
and kevin,
the phoenix gold has a blown right woofer the left one still works but the balance is crap in the car when its like that
the enclosure is a bassworks push post... this design i saw if i upgrade had like 2 slots in the top and 2 in the front so once in the trunk it would bump skyward (i was unsure about) as well as towards the driver
and kevin,
the phoenix gold has a blown right woofer the left one still works but the balance is crap in the car when its like that
11-22-2009, 10:10 PM
#19
Well, a lot of installers are used to doing a mediocre job, and not because of their lack of knowledge, but because people dont want to pay extra, and they plainly forget about the little details that make a world of difference that allows you to tap into equipment's full potential.
Just follow some of the advice I have given you in the above post and all that will help, because it shoud have been done to strat with, but when customers bargain for install price, installer will give them a better price, but at the cost of using inferior product and cutting corners. A customer is happy they got a better deal, onlt they got what they payed for and the deal is the same, only they payed less, but they also got less.
Common sense stuff like making sure all the grounds are properly done with proper size quality wires and bare metal good contact, also adding another wire at the negative battery post to the chassis bare metal(paint scratched off). The power and ground wires should be at least four gauge depending on the system demands, two gauge or higher would be better. ANL fuse is a must instead of the glass crap. Four gauge will take 125A, two gauge 200A, and around 300A for zero gauge. You may want to do the whole "big3" thing under the hood. Making sure the ground at the rear of the vehicle near amps is very nicely done is critical. You do all this over the top and you'll have hard time dimming the lights on bass heavy music even with huge amps and without caps, and that will tell you that you are feeding your amps just fine. Having at least 120A alt helps a lot too, and not the recoiled type, but direct factory 120A. Having a bigger capacity/size battery also helps a ton, so try fitting as big as possible battery under the hood, and make sure it works at 100%, as the volt meter should show 12.6-12.8V when battery is fully charged, if it doesnt the battery is no longer working properly and had less capacity. The less current capacity you have the lower the voltage drops will be, the worse the lights will dim, the less amps will be fed, the less potential will be used. Running amps close to 10v makes it very hard on them and they wont last long.
As far as the subs are concerned, as I said earlier, they are only as good as the box they are in. You may have to make a dicision to cut your losses on some of the stuff, and build it right this time, instead of trying to build on "crap" adding more "crap". If you love your music, you will one day do it anyway, so why not start early and save yourself the trouble and money of going through all this non-sense. Do it right and start enjoying your system. Dont waste time. If money is an issue, just wait and save some more, and when you think you have enough saved, wait some more and collect more money, and then buy something you can be proud of and get true satisfaction from your music.
Just follow some of the advice I have given you in the above post and all that will help, because it shoud have been done to strat with, but when customers bargain for install price, installer will give them a better price, but at the cost of using inferior product and cutting corners. A customer is happy they got a better deal, onlt they got what they payed for and the deal is the same, only they payed less, but they also got less.
Common sense stuff like making sure all the grounds are properly done with proper size quality wires and bare metal good contact, also adding another wire at the negative battery post to the chassis bare metal(paint scratched off). The power and ground wires should be at least four gauge depending on the system demands, two gauge or higher would be better. ANL fuse is a must instead of the glass crap. Four gauge will take 125A, two gauge 200A, and around 300A for zero gauge. You may want to do the whole "big3" thing under the hood. Making sure the ground at the rear of the vehicle near amps is very nicely done is critical. You do all this over the top and you'll have hard time dimming the lights on bass heavy music even with huge amps and without caps, and that will tell you that you are feeding your amps just fine. Having at least 120A alt helps a lot too, and not the recoiled type, but direct factory 120A. Having a bigger capacity/size battery also helps a ton, so try fitting as big as possible battery under the hood, and make sure it works at 100%, as the volt meter should show 12.6-12.8V when battery is fully charged, if it doesnt the battery is no longer working properly and had less capacity. The less current capacity you have the lower the voltage drops will be, the worse the lights will dim, the less amps will be fed, the less potential will be used. Running amps close to 10v makes it very hard on them and they wont last long.
As far as the subs are concerned, as I said earlier, they are only as good as the box they are in. You may have to make a dicision to cut your losses on some of the stuff, and build it right this time, instead of trying to build on "crap" adding more "crap". If you love your music, you will one day do it anyway, so why not start early and save yourself the trouble and money of going through all this non-sense. Do it right and start enjoying your system. Dont waste time. If money is an issue, just wait and save some more, and when you think you have enough saved, wait some more and collect more money, and then buy something you can be proud of and get true satisfaction from your music.
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