MR2NR

iTrader: (66)

Bad ground. A good ground is one that has a low a resistance reading as possible. Electricity is an algebra equation, what you do to one side you must do to another. Consider this. Resistance on a ground return = you eating a foot long sub and then someone sewing your butt closed. Get the drift? With todays vehicles being a blend of recyled metals, crappy spot welded panels and glued together unibody parts, current has one heck of a time flowing through it. As your current draw increases, so does the strain on the ground. If you have a bad ground, problems are going to manifest itself in the amp because of it.

I would also consider the source material being played. It is all fine to set the gains using a tone sweep for example, but when you start playing source materials that are recorded with a heavily saturated bass track that may have another 9db centered at 50hz, well the effects on the amp and ultimately the sub is going to be less than desireable.

Lspade69

iTrader: (2)

crap, so you think that I need another run back to the battery for the negative? that sucks. haha.

mayhem

iTrader: (1)

so in this/his case where would the ideal spot be to ground?

WD21

I toosted one a T3 1000d already. within 3 hours of play. whats you sub wired too? they say that you should use a fuse 150-200 amp's. I had a 200 in there and my amp shorted out inside and would not stop untill I pulled the fuse. the fuse(2 of them) refused to blow.

there GREAT amps and I love my new one tons. only problem is that it makes my cd's skip now.

you dont need to run a new ground to your batt. just a peice of solid metal. the frame is a good idea because there is none of that glue crap on it unlike the body.

WD21

wupps, meant to say I had a 150 amp fuses in there and neiter would blow.

splescort

iTrader: (16)

easy way to find the best spot to place your ground is to take a DMM and place it on ohms and place one probe on the neg of the battery and then the other probe on the bear metal that you think is gonna be good and if you read and ohms then try another spot till you find the lowest ohms and that is gonna be the best..

snipes12

obviously my first post was totaly off i was no where close to knowing what was wrong LoL

Killer_klown187

iTrader: (20)

The first thought that comes to mind(I have the same amps, and I had the same problem), Where do you have the speaker wires going into?? If it is not into Bridged mode, and you are running only a left or a right channel, Kiss that amp good bye...Another thing, Check your ohms, Make sure its 2 +, If not then this could also be a contributing factor!! I ran 2 of these to a single Kicker CVR and a MA Kore series sub!! Blew the Kore to ...and the CVR, well it works great still cause I didn't turn it up :P..Make sure you are in Bridged on the output channels...

Lspade69

iTrader: (2)

Ohh dang, I have one 200 amp. I suppose that I will probly need a bigger one?

kinda lost? you were running two different subs at the same time?? Or just one sub off of both? One of these is 4 times the power that the cvr needs, that is if you have the 15".



Do you guys really think that this is a ground problem???? I guess that would have probly been the last of my thoughts but I guess it makes a lot of sense. Who was it that said something about eating and then havin the buthole sewed shut? hahah, awesome analogy.