Ya dont go by there amp draw ratings. When PAS MAG did a test it did like 1608W rms at 4 ohms with 13.5Volts and it drew 155Amps. There amp draw ratings are a bit out

 

^^that's more like it!! and that's damn powerful, and pretty efficient!!

 

Alright, its finished and the 1 ohm thing was the problem. This time I put a 100amp fuse on the system though and since it did not pop that means I am not getting the 1800wrms??? I set the gains for 1800wrms (before I read those posts) so I think I was sending a clipped signal to my subwoofer but I have to say that the pressure inside of my car comes close to my two 15" kicker cvrs. Could anyone give an educated guess at how many amps my stock alternater is putting out?? I have 168k miles on the odometer and for the most part the suv has been treated extremely well.

And thanks guys for all this help with my problem. This is like the most help that I have ever had on this forum. Thank you all .

 

^^just because the fuse does not blow, does not mean that the amp is not putting out the power. If it's an ANL type, or Maxi fuse, they can typically pass 200% of their rating for 30 seconds or more. Even AGU fuses will pass a significantly higher amount of current for a certain amount of time. Only one way to know for sure...measure it!

 

How do I do that???? hahah, I have a multimeter but I don't think it reads ohms or amperes or watts, at least I don't know how to make it read those. I CAN FIND OUT THE VOLTS THOUGH!!!! Hahaha.

Lets say that I figure out how to run everything on my multimeter, how would I find out what my amp is putting out????

 

your meter will measure voltage
but it probably won't be able to measure the current draw most dvm are limited to 10 amps
you can measure resistance
you need a clamping dc ampmeter and a voltmeter
they also should be a rms meter
i have a fluke 175 which is a rms meter
rms standing for real man
wattage is voltage times amperage

you can rough it by taking the the ac voltage at the terminals using a test tone then multipy it by itself then divide it by your resistance
this is its only rough due to the resistance changing when it is played

 

Its saying alot for the Ultimate amps to go into protection rather than pop the fuse, and if it continues to work they have exceptional internals, I have just ordered 2 Ultimate T31000D`s because of all the good things I hear about them.

Dont continue to run a 2 ohm rated amp at 1 ohm, it was not designed to be loaded down that low to produce power, alot of guys push amps to there limits rather than building a system package that works together

My .02

Garett

 

Yup, these amps are built hardcore. I sent it into protection 3 times and it still works like a fricken charm. Now I have it at 4 ohms and it is pushing very good.

Thanks for the advice on metering what the amp can do.

 

so from what I understand is you are teaching him to measure the amount of DC in his amplifiers output??? if you knew anything about amplifiers or sound... you would know that it is AC... but yes take a measurement of the AC current flowing through the speaker wire ( positive or negative wire... doesn't matter) and then take an AC voltage measurement across the positive and negative speaker wire... multiply the two together and you will have a good approximation of your actuall wattage output... its not 100% accurate as the current and voltage will be out of phase... but close enough for an approximation... nevermind... too much information

 

Just for the record he did say AC