Colton

This one here?

Instead, I would recommend this.

$50 cheaper on SonicElectronix and you'll get a lot more power out of the RF power series. RMS @ 1 or 2ohm is rated 1000w but the birthsheet that comes with it will likely read 1200w+, giving you much more available headroom.

$ROBLIVNLOUD$

Well im getting 2 kicker 10 in L7's. So when you say parallell, you mean hook one wire of one sub to the positive terminal of the amp on the 1st speaker terminal, than hook another wire from the other sub to the negative terminal of the 1st speaker terminal. Than hook the 1st sub wire to the negative terminal of the 2nd speaker terminal on the amp and than hook the 2nd sub wire to the positive terminal of the 2nd speaker terminal on the amp???????

$ROBLIVNLOUD$

nvm, i looked up a video and it showed me how to hook up one sub parrallel to the amp

$ROBLIVNLOUD$

How would i hook up 2 Kicker L7 10in subs parallel to a Hertz EP1D amp?

Dukk

I'm all for people trying to learn things but IMO, with questions this basic, you should have the amp installed and tuned by a professional to avoid problems.

audio1der

Without kowing whether your L7s are DVC 2 or 4 ohm, look it up here:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-0eHwrpP...rs_wiring.html
BTW, you don't "set" an amp to any particular load. You present it with that laod via your sub(s) and it/their particular wiring configuration. I.E. with 2 DVC 4ohm subs, you can only present a 1 or 4 ohm load, with 2 DVC 2ohm subs you can only present a 1 or 2 ohm load.
I almost always agree with Dukk (no sucking up), but I would try to give them 100% of their rated RMS power. That's just me.

$ROBLIVNLOUD$

audio1der: the 10in kicker L7's are dual voice coil and there impedance(OHMS) are 2 or 4 DVC, here's the kicker site specs: http://kicker.com/Solo-Baric_L7. I was gonna hook up the subs parrallel to each other to get 1 OHM. I have a Hertz EP1D Mono Amp w/ crossover. It's a 1000W RMS Mono Amp.

I wanted to know if its ok if i hooked up those subs parrallel to each other to that amp? And if i would need a capacitor or audio battery on top of that?

because i dnt want to break anything.
I'm a mechanic and i've been slowly learning alot about systems just from messing with them alot.

audio1der

Here's what you need:
http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchf...no-low-imp.jpg
Buy the dual 4 ohm coils L7s and you'll be set. Print out a diagram of any wiring wizrd you find online which clearly shows the wiring you need, and keep it beside you while you do it. Then take a break for something to eat, come back to it and double check your work.
It'll be just fine. Just be sure to set your gain(s) carefully, and watch for clipping.
Honestly, you'll be hard pressed to find anyone who supports the use of capacitors here. Why don't you upgrade your big 3 first, install the amp & subs, and see how your electrical is? You might want a Stinger volt meter to keep an eye on your voltage; $20 well spent. If your voltage dips below 12V when the bass hits while the car is running, add a 2nd battery in the trunk. Run both the +12V and grounds from the front battery to the 2nd one in the rear; don't ground the rear battery in the back. and don't forget to fuse the +12V run between batts within 18" of EACH battery!