To an extent they are, bigtime. Realistically, that 100Hz extent is superfluous because you can likely get a 200, 400, or even 800 Hz note to play through that sub. Why? Because in principle, it's still a speaker. It's just made to handle frequencies best within the 20-100Hz range.

The suggested frequency response of the sub is definitely not the limit of what it can physically produce. So yeah, it will definitely play above 100Hz. There's no logical or physical limiting factor with that 100Hz spec.

[ June 26, 2004, 05:30 AM: Message edited by: Chadxton ]

 

Muckaluk,

Kudos for posting your question with details that your "help" can use. It's certainly easier to help you when you go about giving as much info as possible including your listening tastes.

And for those that responded, you make the CANADIAN car audio board a great place to post questions.

My personal experience is somewhat more discouraging though. I've found the exact same thing as you describe when I've added subs to a couple of my factory sound systems. Usually the factory drivers are crossed over pretty high, because they don't have the excursion capability to go any lower. It usually ends up a distorting speaker at normal listening levels I've found. That said, it is worth a try lowering the front stage high pass point.

Good luck.

Adam

 

The key IMHO would be to create some impactful midbass upfront. If you cross the sub over too high it will start to lose it's "kick", or accuracy thereof with complex music material. Other problem will be that your soundstage will be drawn into the back/trunk as the higher you cross over the subs the more you are able to localize it...bad for accurate soundstage.

We could probably give you a few more pointers if you answer this...

What type & size of comps are you using up front?

and are they mounted in the doors or kick panels? Is the mounting point re-enforced? Are they in a sealed enclosure space? And if they are in a sealed enclosure space, how much space in terms of volume do you have to work with?

What I'm thinking is some help to tune the front comps so they can play comfortably down to like 60-80 Hz, and lot of that potential capability comes from how they are mounted, and where, and their size.

If we can help you do that, you should be ok.

There is one issue that might rear it's head in the final analysis. I notice you have a lot of power going to a sub that by it's nature can play pretty loud (Is it a ported box?). In the end, you may have to tone down the level of the sub so once you've got the front comps properly playing down to like 60-80 Hz (w/steep cut off if poss) they may not be able to keep up the volume of the midbass to match the volume of the sub.

The IDEAL solution costs money, of course, would be to install some 6 or 8 inch midbass drivers up front IB in your doors and the comps in your kicks, and then give the midbasses at least 100 watts each, preferrably 200 W. Maybe something to aim for...

 

Yeah Islandphile:

I'm still using the stock mids and tweets in my 2002 Golf. The stock mids are 6.5" mids and located both in the front and rear doors. These are all stock so I'm not sure about re-enforced mounting points and the volume they work with within the doors. My guess is they're not re-enforced and the volume space is very small.

Yes, the sub is in a large vented enclosure and I've set up my system with SPL in mind over SQ. To each tweet and mid I'm running 85 watts so I'm almost at the minimum power you've suggested.

I know I'll never put kick panels in the car but I'll probably throw some infinity 6.5's in place of the stock speakers. I should then have the freedom to drop the crossover right down to something like 50Hz on the sub and give the mids a nice 60 Hz.

What do you think? Good idea or bad, if I'm looking to play some pop music every once in a while?

 

I'm sorry I wasn't clearer...I meant additional midbasses AND a set of mids & tweets in the kicks...That's the ideal world .

Soo back to what we really have to work with...

I think your idea of upgrading the speakers up front would be money well spent...speakers are where you get the best bang for the bux as far as a noticaable real world improvement.

Maybe you should start a new thread, "I have $XXX budget, looking for front 6-inch comps and see what all the good people here will suggest for your app.

Remember, to get the most of those new comps, re-enforce the mounting location with some plywood (doesn't warp if it sees moisture) and sound deaded the door & door panel really well. One very effective technique is to seal the sheet metal face of the door under the door panel with some Cascade, Dynamat, Brown Bread or similar. This will effectively give you a sealed enclosure which is CRITICAL in producing up front midbass from comps.

Sound to me like you need a set of comps that put out great midbass when installed properly in the door. Good luck!

 

Keep in mind that most factory speakers are very shallow depth, which means very little excursion, and power handling.
Changing the guage of speaker wire can make a difference in the mids, as factory wire is too cheesy.