Remedy for dimming headlights?
01-04-2011, 02:08 AM
#1
50 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 94
Remedy for dimming headlights?
I have an Audison LRX 1.1k hooked up to a 350 Watt RMS subwoofer. Basically, I'm not using nearly as much power as the amp could pump out. This being said, I might want to upgrade to a set of subs in the future to better utilize the power of the LRX, let's say a combined power of ~900W at 1 ohm.
I already notice that my headlights dim considerably every time the bass hits even at 350W. It's not a big concern now, but once I get my new subs, what needs replacing/upgrading so that the lights don't dim anymore, and so that I don't destroy my electrical system?
I already notice that my headlights dim considerably every time the bass hits even at 350W. It's not a big concern now, but once I get my new subs, what needs replacing/upgrading so that the lights don't dim anymore, and so that I don't destroy my electrical system?
01-04-2011, 04:44 AM
#2
Okay firstly, it doesn't matter what power the sub is rated at. If the 1.1k does more than that, that's what it'll give the sub. The only thing controlling the power output of that amp is your volume ****.
Your current setup is actually a good thing. Lots of power to feed your conservatively rated sub will provide cleaner loud bass. Just don't overdo it.
Your dimming headlights mainly means your grounding is crap. Your amp will pull a lot of juice, so keep your ground wire from the amp as short as possible, and make sure it makes good contact with wherever it's grounded to.
It also would be a good idea to run an additional ground cable from your negative batt terminal to the chassis. Again, short as possible. I did this along with keeping good amp ground in a car that had only a 90 amp alternator, and at 90% volume there was only a slight slow dim with the hard bass.
Your current setup is actually a good thing. Lots of power to feed your conservatively rated sub will provide cleaner loud bass. Just don't overdo it.
Your dimming headlights mainly means your grounding is crap. Your amp will pull a lot of juice, so keep your ground wire from the amp as short as possible, and make sure it makes good contact with wherever it's grounded to.
It also would be a good idea to run an additional ground cable from your negative batt terminal to the chassis. Again, short as possible. I did this along with keeping good amp ground in a car that had only a 90 amp alternator, and at 90% volume there was only a slight slow dim with the hard bass.
01-04-2011, 05:12 AM
#3
Do the "Big 3" upgrade:
Alt to batt +
Batt to engine ground
batt to body ground
Should take care of your problem.
Also, the load that you present the amp (ie. 4ohm vs 1ohm) decides how much power your amp will produce and how much current it will draw. It has nothing to do with how many watts the sub is rated for...
Alt to batt +
Batt to engine ground
batt to body ground
Should take care of your problem.
Also, the load that you present the amp (ie. 4ohm vs 1ohm) decides how much power your amp will produce and how much current it will draw. It has nothing to do with how many watts the sub is rated for...
01-04-2011, 05:40 AM
#4
01-04-2011, 09:42 AM
#8
50 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 94
Okay firstly, it doesn't matter what power the sub is rated at. If the 1.1k does more than that, that's what it'll give the sub. The only thing controlling the power output of that amp is your volume ****.
Your current setup is actually a good thing. Lots of power to feed your conservatively rated sub will provide cleaner loud bass. Just don't overdo it.
Your dimming headlights mainly means your grounding is crap. Your amp will pull a lot of juice, so keep your ground wire from the amp as short as possible, and make sure it makes good contact with wherever it's grounded to.
It also would be a good idea to run an additional ground cable from your negative batt terminal to the chassis. Again, short as possible. I did this along with keeping good amp ground in a car that had only a 90 amp alternator, and at 90% volume there was only a slight slow dim with the hard bass.
Your current setup is actually a good thing. Lots of power to feed your conservatively rated sub will provide cleaner loud bass. Just don't overdo it.
Your dimming headlights mainly means your grounding is crap. Your amp will pull a lot of juice, so keep your ground wire from the amp as short as possible, and make sure it makes good contact with wherever it's grounded to.
It also would be a good idea to run an additional ground cable from your negative batt terminal to the chassis. Again, short as possible. I did this along with keeping good amp ground in a car that had only a 90 amp alternator, and at 90% volume there was only a slight slow dim with the hard bass.
And as for the alternator, I just put a new alt in, upgrading from a 50A alt to a 60A alt... I'm beginning to think that that might be the problem? It seems rather underpowered considering the sub can draw almost 80A at full load. I know i have a good ground about half a foot away from the amp, but I guess I'll try running another ground wire from the battery.
01-04-2011, 09:44 AM
#9
50 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 94
Do the "Big 3" upgrade:
Alt to batt +
Batt to engine ground
batt to body ground
Should take care of your problem.
Also, the load that you present the amp (ie. 4ohm vs 1ohm) decides how much power your amp will produce and how much current it will draw. It has nothing to do with how many watts the sub is rated for...
Alt to batt +
Batt to engine ground
batt to body ground
Should take care of your problem.
Also, the load that you present the amp (ie. 4ohm vs 1ohm) decides how much power your amp will produce and how much current it will draw. It has nothing to do with how many watts the sub is rated for...
