here to make a longer story a BIT shorter....
do you feel like you have a bit of money to blow? then the first best thing would be invest in an SPL measuring device... best bang for your buck I would invest in the USB TERMLAB system (single sensor) should cost if I remember correctly around $1000 CDN find it here
this is the most usefull tool that you can own if you want to compete and do well... it will easily save you double or more in stereo equipment... if you are sure that is what you want..then go for it... also do not buy 100000 different cheap subs from XS Cargo..go buy the GOOD QUALITY stuff...(Audiobahn AWxx05 series,Resonant Engeneering,Treo, Digital Designs to name a few) sure might be a bit of an expense at first but will save you money in the long run... and who ever you buy from..make sure they can get you recones for the subs...YOU WILL BLOW THEM ATLEAST ONCE! get some 1/0 power wire... positive and negative straight from the front... dont cheap out here or you will not get full potential out of your amplifier... next buy a good CLASS D AMPLIFIER (American Bass 200.1, Mattsd3000.1, Audiobahn A4KWN, Lightning Audio x2000.1, way too many to list... now that you will have the most kick *** equipment... do a google search for WINISD... download it and play with the program... the subs you buy SHOULD come with a spec sheet with THEILE SMALL PARAMETERS you will be able to input them into the program and start designing boxes and when you have time build one...and test it... ask lots of questions on here in GENERAL SPL about what you should try in your specific vehicle... someone out here should be able to help guide you in the right direction...and when you build your box..USE GLUE ... LOTS OF IT!!! NO SILICONE!!!! i prefer brad nails but not everyone has a compressor and a brad nailer so you might be best to use screws... best wood (cheaper version) to use for SPL boxes is 3/4 or 1 inch thick MDF(medium density fibreboard)

hmmm I think that should sum it up pretty good... if I missed something just ask! [img]smile.gif[/img]
good luck... and hope I didnt scare you away... but to compete SPL you will see yourself with an investment of around $2000-$5000 in just equipment and wires...to become competitive.
oh yeah ...and make sure to have a good CD PLAYER that has a PAUSE button that does NOT unpause if you press any of the other buttons on the deck... and one that will actually allow you to control your deck while in PAUSE mode and a good REMOTE that works well through tinted windows if you have tints

 

One more thing...
Need to get a good battery, Hawker or Optima or the biggest one you can fit under the hood [img]graemlins/thumb.gif[/img]

 

I knew I missed one... yeah if you go optima got for the 31 series if you can fit it...its ALOT bigger than the regular 34 series...but from reading the specs will outperform the Hawker 1700...sorry didnt have a chance to compare to the 2150

 

yeah those batteries are good! but i have a few others to try this year suppsoed to be quite a bit louder than the 2150's... [img]graemlins/freak.gif[/img] by louder i mean more juice clearly


Livin Loud

 

My stereo is louder when the windows are open. How do i get it so that it is as loud when my windows are shut??

 

I need some 1/0 gauge like now.... After finding out how bad 8 gauge wire is for my 1200 watt amp, Im probably hurting the amp, when its just cranked.

 

if its a 1200WRMS amp. You will definetly FRY your amp and have it catch fire, by strangling it with 8 guage. Definetly get 4guage or larger 1/0 guage is always best as it leaves room for upgrades.

 

build a ported box! and read the post again on page one right after the first time you asked this question [img]smile.gif[/img]

[ March 31, 2005, 09:47 PM: Message edited by: MTA ]

 

Thats like saying you will blow your cars engine if you limit gas flow and drive at low speed... [img]graemlins/freak.gif[/img]

 

ahaha yeah! ^^ always get better preformace with bigger wires though! the more current that amp can suck, the more power out.

Livin Loud