I have a great Idea!! Look inside to find out more....
Originally posted by Speakerman:
Sorry about the length here...And yes I am a dirty American, but am no different from ya'll. You scratch my back and I scratch yours eh? lol
To all the pros, how much will rounding all the corners and such in the box help?
I've been contemplating this for my setup. I didn't know about it when I build my box...I don't really want to do a lot of heavy mods though because the box is 9 cubes and 1.5 thick...bolted to the frame in 12 places, ect.ect. (hard to mess with by myself)
If it helps, I'm running 2 TC Sounds LMT 15" subs off a JBL BPx2200.1 (getting another soon) at 2 ohms (2200 Wrms). The HU is Alpine CDA-9835. I've only got the stock Alt (175A) and an additional Stinger SPV-44 yellow top battery. All this is in a 1997 F-150 ext cab with the subs inverted and facing up along with the port.
I figured that by rounding the corners in the box, it would reduce some airspace and also give me a bit higher tuning freq. (Box is tuned way too low to hit high on the mic---like 25 Hz//but you should see/hear the lows...) Its almost impossible for me to modify the port...I didn't take all this into consideration during the planning process...
help me out and give me a few ideas. (please no walls-not yet-its still a daily driver)
Also I think it may be illegal in Texas to wall it off...hmm..not sure..I'll have to check that out.
anywho...thanks a lot
Sorry about the length here...And yes I am a dirty American, but am no different from ya'll. You scratch my back and I scratch yours eh? lol
To all the pros, how much will rounding all the corners and such in the box help?
I've been contemplating this for my setup. I didn't know about it when I build my box...I don't really want to do a lot of heavy mods though because the box is 9 cubes and 1.5 thick...bolted to the frame in 12 places, ect.ect. (hard to mess with by myself)
If it helps, I'm running 2 TC Sounds LMT 15" subs off a JBL BPx2200.1 (getting another soon) at 2 ohms (2200 Wrms). The HU is Alpine CDA-9835. I've only got the stock Alt (175A) and an additional Stinger SPV-44 yellow top battery. All this is in a 1997 F-150 ext cab with the subs inverted and facing up along with the port.
I figured that by rounding the corners in the box, it would reduce some airspace and also give me a bit higher tuning freq. (Box is tuned way too low to hit high on the mic---like 25 Hz//but you should see/hear the lows...) Its almost impossible for me to modify the port...I didn't take all this into consideration during the planning process...
help me out and give me a few ideas. (please no walls-not yet-its still a daily driver)
Also I think it may be illegal in Texas to wall it off...hmm..not sure..I'll have to check that out.
anywho...thanks a lot
It doesn't have to bee to difficult though. You can probalby do it with the box still mounted in the car. Just remove the subs.
What I did to round the corners was go to Home Depot and buy a piece of 2"x2" ... slice it on an angle so that you split it in 1/2 and have 2 triangular pieces.
Then cut those pieces to the length you need to round out all the corners.
If you need to you can then use silicone/body filler/rezin..whatever to round the edges off a bit more. [img]graemlins/thumb.gif[/img]
Originally posted by JordyO:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by MTA:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by JordyO:
Fine then... help me out. I've got equipment you should be familiar with.
Stock 1 in IASCA. (2 amps, 2 batts, 2 10's)
I'm running 2 of the Jonah Lomu amps. Modified to put out like 3k. (stable down to 2 Ohms)
1995 Mazda 323 with a Hawker 2150 under the hood and a 200 amp alt.
For subs... I honestly haven't decided yet. I was looking at either 2 of the Powerplant 10's or 1 of the Competition 12's.
If not then I'll go with something other than Fusion. I've got a great deal on Fusion equipment so I'll probably be going mostly with that.
The HU I'm using is a lower end Panasonic but it has 2 sets of 2.5v pre-outs.
All last season I was running a 12" Inhuman in a modified CRX box. (cut off about 9" in depth and made it 2-3" higher) rounded corners... 2 x 4" aeroports..
I tried a version of the Panda box at Finals with 2 DD subs. They didn't do very well but I think that's because the box was too small.
My best score was a 149.4 on the AC SPL190 sensor.
So... any suggestions?
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by MTA:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by JordyO:
Fine then... help me out. I've got equipment you should be familiar with.
Stock 1 in IASCA. (2 amps, 2 batts, 2 10's)
I'm running 2 of the Jonah Lomu amps. Modified to put out like 3k. (stable down to 2 Ohms)
1995 Mazda 323 with a Hawker 2150 under the hood and a 200 amp alt.
For subs... I honestly haven't decided yet. I was looking at either 2 of the Powerplant 10's or 1 of the Competition 12's.
If not then I'll go with something other than Fusion. I've got a great deal on Fusion equipment so I'll probably be going mostly with that.
The HU I'm using is a lower end Panasonic but it has 2 sets of 2.5v pre-outs.
All last season I was running a 12" Inhuman in a modified CRX box. (cut off about 9" in depth and made it 2-3" higher) rounded corners... 2 x 4" aeroports..
I tried a version of the Panda box at Finals with 2 DD subs. They didn't do very well but I think that's because the box was too small.
My best score was a 149.4 on the AC SPL190 sensor.
So... any suggestions?
lack of xmax...and hopefully by now they have also corrected their glue problem..they kept falling apart at the 3point..spider cone and coil
but a 323 good start.... PM me with dimentions of the cargo area max dimentions and also distance from from hatch to centre of windshield at dashboard </font>[/QUOTE]Don't worry man.. I know that the Powerplants wont be the best. I haven't bought any yet... right now it's just something I'm considering.
If I try them and they don't work out I'll just be sure to get something else that can take a beating.
For box size I have the following to use in the hatch area:
38" wide x 17" deep x 16" high
I'll get you the distance from the hatch to the windshield tomorrow.. it's a bit late now
</font>[/QUOTE]at 16 high do you still leave yourself enough room to mount the subs on top?ouch you only have 4.75cu.ft. total..makes it a bit more difficult...atleast its a short car and you should be able to use a fairly high note
[ January 20, 2005, 09:53 AM: Message edited by: MTA ]
50 Watt CAFz'r
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 88
since we are all in the sharing mood any suggestions on my set up its in a 2001 KIA Sportage I have a Pioneer 9400MP, juggernaut 15 with dual 1.8 ohm coils and is being run by a hehehehehehe Ultralinear UL1500XS ( quite an impressive cheap amp, Used to run a Mmatts D100hc and it seems like this amp is quite comparable if not slightly better for this setup anyways ) my cargo space I have to work with is 40" between the wheelwells side to side and 30" deep 25 if i want leave room for the port to breath I can go 16.5" high max and the stuff i've figured out already is that my vehicle is loudest with sub firing back versus up and the peak frequency is 58hz. I think I'm on the right track here but thats what this post is for, to learn so if there is anything i'm missing some input would be great. Also I'm shooting for street B. Thanx guys.
[ January 21, 2005, 12:21 AM: Message edited by: The dude formely known as SPL-Z24 ]
[ January 21, 2005, 12:21 AM: Message edited by: The dude formely known as SPL-Z24 ]
Originally posted by ChrisB:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by JordyO:
Yeah, at 16" high I still have enough room for the subs up top.
The car burps at 59hz. Not too bad
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by JordyO:
Yeah, at 16" high I still have enough room for the subs up top.
The car burps at 59hz. Not too bad
(Btw... 42hz is still a bit wimpy. gotta get in to the low 30's!) [img]tongue.gif[/img]
500 Watt CAFz'r
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 832
Yeah last year my spare tire well was blocked off so I would have been hooped if I got a flat. Not that I know how to change the $#!+ anyways but it woulda helped!
Here's my idea:
•Project Ghetto Temp. SPL Set Up Sounds B Good Fo Mega chocolate money money bling rockefellar smooth•
- Have the baffle just rest up top. It could be removable so u can fold the seats up after the show.
- And use the angle dangle maker to make the sub box flush with the baffle.
- You can even seal the baffle with your moms tea towels like I do. Well... Thats why my trunk doesnt rattle, but this season im using expanding foam.
But I'm thinking that might help even a bit!
PS - this Painting is now up for sale. Thank you.
Here's my idea:
•Project Ghetto Temp. SPL Set Up Sounds B Good Fo Mega chocolate money money bling rockefellar smooth•
- Have the baffle just rest up top. It could be removable so u can fold the seats up after the show.
- And use the angle dangle maker to make the sub box flush with the baffle.
- You can even seal the baffle with your moms tea towels like I do. Well... Thats why my trunk doesnt rattle, but this season im using expanding foam.
But I'm thinking that might help even a bit!
PS - this Painting is now up for sale. Thank you.
LMAO!
The angle dangle thing you speak of is a sliding T-bevel. Very useful. I would get one if I were you.
How much for the pic?
BTW that baffle would be illegal for DB drag.
Edit: Illegal for street classes that is.
X
[ January 21, 2005, 09:29 PM: Message edited by: Xiph0id ]
The angle dangle thing you speak of is a sliding T-bevel. Very useful. I would get one if I were you.
How much for the pic?
BTW that baffle would be illegal for DB drag.
Edit: Illegal for street classes that is.
X
[ January 21, 2005, 09:29 PM: Message edited by: Xiph0id ]
