2011 Dodge Ram Club Cab install...need help shopping.
06-06-2011, 04:33 PM
#11
Level 3 Supporter
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 391
Check out the Massive Audio NX5 for size and power. If u could listen to their CK6 components or their new RK6 comps. I have the CK and love 'em. Definitely seal up those font doors and deaden the speaker mounting area.
Does that EQ have multie inputs? Or is it a simple 2 ch input thats split within? A simple, high quality LOC run into the EQ might be as effective as your PAC unit. But it won't be plug and play.
You could run additional tweets in the 3.5" location off deck power and have control of them somewhat independently of your amps. Or run them off the front amp channels. Massive makes some nice stand-alone tweets CT-1, and CT-2. Both smooth and efficient with their own x-overs.
Does that EQ have multie inputs? Or is it a simple 2 ch input thats split within? A simple, high quality LOC run into the EQ might be as effective as your PAC unit. But it won't be plug and play.
You could run additional tweets in the 3.5" location off deck power and have control of them somewhat independently of your amps. Or run them off the front amp channels. Massive makes some nice stand-alone tweets CT-1, and CT-2. Both smooth and efficient with their own x-overs.
06-07-2011, 07:33 AM
#12
0 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 25
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One thing I might recommend is running the PDX-F4 or F6. In which case you would amplify the front two speakers and bridge channel 3 and 4 to the sub, leaving the rears unamplified (they're just there for fill, anyway).
At one of the conferences I attended this year with my job, one of the Alpine engineers bench tested a few of the new PDXs right in front of us and on average the PDX-F6 put out 800 watts RMS to 4ohms from the bridged 3/4channel. Which is crazy because they are 'rated' for 300watts still.
One thing I might recommend is running the PDX-F4 or F6. In which case you would amplify the front two speakers and bridge channel 3 and 4 to the sub, leaving the rears unamplified (they're just there for fill, anyway).
At one of the conferences I attended this year with my job, one of the Alpine engineers bench tested a few of the new PDXs right in front of us and on average the PDX-F6 put out 800 watts RMS to 4ohms from the bridged 3/4channel. Which is crazy because they are 'rated' for 300watts still.
Curious how you'd want to load the bridged back channels? 2, 4 or 8 ohms?
Check out the Massive Audio NX5 for size and power. If u could listen to their CK6 components or their new RK6 comps. I have the CK and love 'em. Definitely seal up those font doors and deaden the speaker mounting area.
Does that EQ have multie inputs? Or is it a simple 2 ch input thats split within? A simple, high quality LOC run into the EQ might be as effective as your PAC unit. But it won't be plug and play.
You could run additional tweets in the 3.5" location off deck power and have control of them somewhat independently of your amps. Or run them off the front amp channels. Massive makes some nice stand-alone tweets CT-1, and CT-2. Both smooth and efficient with their own x-overs.
Does that EQ have multie inputs? Or is it a simple 2 ch input thats split within? A simple, high quality LOC run into the EQ might be as effective as your PAC unit. But it won't be plug and play.
You could run additional tweets in the 3.5" location off deck power and have control of them somewhat independently of your amps. Or run them off the front amp channels. Massive makes some nice stand-alone tweets CT-1, and CT-2. Both smooth and efficient with their own x-overs.
I beleive the EQ has front and back inputs...I haven't done a lot of reading on it, been researching the more fun stuff, like amps and speakers.
Truthfully, I havent' purchased car audio in over 10 years...back in the day I never had the money for some really nice gear but I made things work with some pioneer premier gear I had bought off buddies and an old RF 75.2 amp to power the subs.
I have a very steep learning curve, and a lot of research to do but I don't want to buy without knowing what all my options are.
Thanks for the input guys, I was thinking this thread was gonna die but I truly appreciate the input, and I DO post pics of my projects.
Cheers.
edit: just finished googling what LOC stands for
Suggestions for a high quality Line output converter?
06-07-2011, 07:44 AM
#13
0 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 25
Line out Converters
So, why did they invent PAC audio/JL cleansweep stuff when there are LOC's available?
Just take the speaker leads directly off the HU, into a good LOC and I'll have a noise free signal going to the aftermarket amp?
Just take the speaker leads directly off the HU, into a good LOC and I'll have a noise free signal going to the aftermarket amp?
06-07-2011, 07:53 AM
#14
0 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 25
--
One thing I might recommend is running the PDX-F4 or F6. In which case you would amplify the front two speakers and bridge channel 3 and 4 to the sub, leaving the rears unamplified (they're just there for fill, anyway).
At one of the conferences I attended this year with my job, one of the Alpine engineers bench tested a few of the new PDXs right in front of us and on average the PDX-F6 put out 800 watts RMS to 4ohms from the bridged 3/4channel. Which is crazy because they are 'rated' for 300watts still.
One thing I might recommend is running the PDX-F4 or F6. In which case you would amplify the front two speakers and bridge channel 3 and 4 to the sub, leaving the rears unamplified (they're just there for fill, anyway).
At one of the conferences I attended this year with my job, one of the Alpine engineers bench tested a few of the new PDXs right in front of us and on average the PDX-F6 put out 800 watts RMS to 4ohms from the bridged 3/4channel. Which is crazy because they are 'rated' for 300watts still.
06-07-2011, 01:49 PM
#15
Level 3 Supporter
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 391
Cleansweep, and the like, do digital processing and EQing and some models do auto calibration that is supposed to restore sound lost through factory sound correction. Some units provide a signal sensing turn on for your amplifiers so u don't have to find a "remote" accessory wire to turn on your amps and most provide an aux input in some form. more advanced units are also capable of doing time correction and other fancies.
I was thinking of using strictly the EQ4P from massive run off a LOC for a factory interface that does most of these things. One set of inputs gives you three 9v pre-outs for front, rear, and sub. As well as an RCA aux in, sub level and crossover, fader, master volume, and 4band parametric EQ to fine tune a limited band of frequencies, but tune them at exactly the frequency needed.
On another note, a 5 channel will give the same results as running a separate 4ch and monoblock. And can be bridged down to a 3ch or loaded down to run 4 pairs of speakers at 2 ohms a channel plus a sub channel.
I was thinking of using strictly the EQ4P from massive run off a LOC for a factory interface that does most of these things. One set of inputs gives you three 9v pre-outs for front, rear, and sub. As well as an RCA aux in, sub level and crossover, fader, master volume, and 4band parametric EQ to fine tune a limited band of frequencies, but tune them at exactly the frequency needed.
On another note, a 5 channel will give the same results as running a separate 4ch and monoblock. And can be bridged down to a 3ch or loaded down to run 4 pairs of speakers at 2 ohms a channel plus a sub channel.
06-07-2011, 02:31 PM
#16
Administrator
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 16,855
^ But you are stuck with a sub channel that is always going to be a sub channel. 5ch amps are good if you have no room but a 4ch+sub amp, or 2 4ch amps is much more flexible.
As mentioned, the Cleansweep is to correct for a factory headunit that has sound contouring based on volume position. What I don't like about it is that it does this at only one position of the factory volume control and most factory radios do not have a numeric readout of the volume level. If yours does, great. If not, as soon as the factory volume **** is moved the system is no longer correcting it properly.
I generally point people towards a RE-Q5 as a very functional LOC that's not expensive.
As mentioned, the Cleansweep is to correct for a factory headunit that has sound contouring based on volume position. What I don't like about it is that it does this at only one position of the factory volume control and most factory radios do not have a numeric readout of the volume level. If yours does, great. If not, as soon as the factory volume **** is moved the system is no longer correcting it properly.
I generally point people towards a RE-Q5 as a very functional LOC that's not expensive.
06-07-2011, 04:43 PM
#18
50 Watt CAFz'r
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 217
Wow. That's impressive. What I was actually planning on doing is running the factory 8" sub off real power until it turns into a pile of smoke and then deciding on how to replace the subwoofer, with another 8" or to go with a 10" box. Nice suggestion on the amp, I had wondered if that was a good idea or not.
Curious how you'd want to load the bridged back channels? 2, 4 or 8 ohms?
Curious how you'd want to load the bridged back channels? 2, 4 or 8 ohms?
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As far as looking into other LOCs, if this were my vehicle I would still go with the PAC audio piece. Why? Because it gives you full 20Hz to 20000Hz flat output from the headunit. If you use an LOC (even a good one), you only get the range of sound that the factory amplifier is putting out. Which in many cases will NOT be 20-20k. And to get even close to full range you would have to tie in to all three channels; Sub, Front and Rear, and you would have to level match them, ideally with a line capable RTA, which is big hassle.
Stick with the CHY23.
06-07-2011, 08:20 PM
#20
0 Watt CAFz'r
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 25
I don't think you are supposed to load the bridged channels any lower than 4 ohms. It's no different than any other bridgeable amp.
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As far as looking into other LOCs, if this were my vehicle I would still go with the PAC audio piece. Why? Because it gives you full 20Hz to 20000Hz flat output from the headunit. If you use an LOC (even a good one), you only get the range of sound that the factory amplifier is putting out. Which in many cases will NOT be 20-20k. And to get even close to full range you would have to tie in to all three channels; Sub, Front and Rear, and you would have to level match them, ideally with a line capable RTA, which is big hassle.
Stick with the CHY23.
--
As far as looking into other LOCs, if this were my vehicle I would still go with the PAC audio piece. Why? Because it gives you full 20Hz to 20000Hz flat output from the headunit. If you use an LOC (even a good one), you only get the range of sound that the factory amplifier is putting out. Which in many cases will NOT be 20-20k. And to get even close to full range you would have to tie in to all three channels; Sub, Front and Rear, and you would have to level match them, ideally with a line capable RTA, which is big hassle.
Stick with the CHY23.
OT: Saskatoon boy hey? Went to school at SIAST back in 2001 or around that time...long ago.
