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Capacitor

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Old 05-28-2006, 06:42 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Rrrrolla
It makes perfect sense since a regulated swicthing mode power supply must make up for the loss of voltage with a increase in current. In an ideal world, the lower the input voltage, the higher the current draw, but the transistors can only handle so much current in the power supply side of the amp, not to mention the traces and other components in the power supply are only designed for so much current. Not only these issues, but the pulse width modulator only has so much head room, once you get to 50% duty cycle, that's as far as you can go with power for the amplifier DC rails. The more current you have to use to keep up with the amplifier's needs, the faster the PWM will max out... The better regulated and higher the voltage (within the amp's limits), the more available power there will be for the amplifier's rail voltages.

edit: how he calculated this 1dB drop, I have no idea, but it does make sense that the amp cannot make as much power with a lower voltage at the input...
I agree that a PWMPS has to increasy duty cycle in order to make up for reduced input voltage etc. I know how they work, I have designed and built one. One can also be overdesigned in order to provide rated output at 10V DC, and then reduce duty cycle when supply voltage goes up to 14 or more. (I doubt any amps are designed that conservatively however).
It was refreshing that someone actually posted some numbers on a forum, I am just asking how you got to them.
So how did you calculate the 1db drop in output? Did you calculate that yourself? How? Or did you find in on a data sheet? On a web site? Was it just an estimate? If so , how did you estimte it?
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Old 05-28-2006, 05:10 PM
  #52  
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It was refreshing that someone actually posted some numbers on a forum
I agree, i've never seen a forum with this many people so well versed in electrical.
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Old 06-01-2006, 11:57 PM
  #53  
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zoomers point is valid but my example was based on a loosly regulated amplifier which is most representative of a large bass amplifier that will pull lots of current; and incidently the type of amplifier which will benifit most from the use of a cap.....

there is not much point in using a cap if your amps are tightly regulated

Last edited by Haunz; 06-02-2006 at 12:04 AM.
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Old 06-06-2006, 10:32 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by Tom@KanKar
There's lots of people that love these things but they are a HUGE waste of money.
My Blade Grenade amplifier indicates when the amplifier is clipping and without my CAP it clips occasionally at max volume and doesn't with the cap. I can tell you that it is almost an inaudiable difference, but I can make it out during the transiants between base hits on my components since I'm pretty about SQ... infact I think my MB Quart QSD components sound crappy since I'm use to high end home audio. Never tried 3 batteries but.... not my style since I quarter mile as well

Last edited by Faststang; 06-06-2006 at 10:42 AM.
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Old 07-22-2006, 11:30 PM
  #55  
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I dont know much about electric and electronic technicality BUT one thing i know is when i added my 3F cap i saw the difference (no more head/dash light dimming or alternator voltage gauge swinging like crazy)

Everything is smooth now with big bass hit on high DB unlike before cap was added.

I use only good quality audio electronic and parts in a high end stealth audio setup for daily use and all this installed properly (so no place for more batteries or huge alternator modification and bla bla bla... )

And i can even say my bass hit harder (not louder) with the cap.

My cap cost me about nothing and give me much more for my investment, for the my personnal use i keep my cap. Thank you
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