General SQ General discussion of Sound Quality related issues.

A Debate on the many different aspects of sound

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 02-19-2005, 10:03 PM
  #111  
Goalie Man
 
goalie 35's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 1,412
Post

good insight dukk. agreed!!
goalie 35 is offline  
Old 02-20-2005, 05:04 AM
  #112  
500 Watt CAFz'r
 
Starterwiz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 870
Post

I have zero experience with ported doors, but I'm in the middle of a serious glass project on a 2000 Cavalier. The original plan was to put a pair of FPW-1200's in the trumk, and two 6's in the doors, and maybe 8's or 10;s in the rear sides.
I always thought that mixing sealed and ported causes too much phase shift and group delay, and we're trying to avoid having to have time alignment in this car. But the extra SPL of porting is tempting.
I could see some advantage of ported midbass, (lower excursion / higher mechanical power handling), but what is the trade off?

This car is being built more to show off, than as a pure SQ car, but I still want it to sound as good as I can get it, and I know it's going to be played hard.
Still can't find the procedure for measuring T/S of a driver...and of course no specs for the mids we're using.
I think I can squeeze at least a cu ft in the door enclosures.
Any thoughts?
Starterwiz is offline  
Old 02-20-2005, 08:35 AM
  #113  
500 Watt CAFz'r
 
Starterwiz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 870
Post

I found an on-line calculator...have to try it with a speaker with published specs and see how close it is.

http://www.bcae1.com/spboxad3.htm
Starterwiz is offline  
Old 02-20-2005, 09:13 AM
  #115  
1000 Watt CAFz'r
 
PEI330Ci's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,783
Post

I've mentioned this before in some PMs, but I've found porting midrange drivers to affect more than just "deep" bass.

Even if you build just one box for one driver to try it out, I recomend trying a ported midrange driver playing from 500hz up. Make your own conclusions from that. Some drivers it may affect in a positive way, some not.

I don't think discounting an idea based on preconcieved notions of the possible benifits is very scientific. I'm not suggesting there's an absolute perfect approach to this, just that there are factors involved that convolute driver theory beyond the expected results.

I think everyone here can relate to practical experiences that made things work when theory could not.

Adam
PEI330Ci is offline  
Old 02-20-2005, 09:13 AM
  #116  
500 Watt CAFz'r
 
Starterwiz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 870
Post

Yep...the more I think about it, the more I want to do it. Any suggestions as to how to get a port into a small thin door panel? I guess I could just mould em outa glass, but maybe a quicker way.
I have the back and sides of the door panels moulded already...of course the back coutours to the door, so it's far from flat.
Starterwiz is offline  
Old 02-20-2005, 09:19 AM
  #117  
1000 Watt CAFz'r
 
PEI330Ci's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,783
Post

I would not suggest using the factory door panel as any part of the driver enclosure or driver support. Having it fit on top of your fabricated enclosure is ok, but beware you are still going to transmit some energy from the driver/enclosure through the factory door panel. Even my heavily modified factory door panels vibrate to the touch.

I would suggest building a door pod that is mechanically isolated entirely from what's left of your factory door panel. That is the best case scenario, chose your own compromise.

Adam
PEI330Ci is offline  
Old 02-20-2005, 10:00 AM
  #119  
500 Watt CAFz'r
 
Starterwiz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 870
Post

I'm cutting the bottom half of the OEM panel off and making a totally new bottom. I took a mould off the OEM panel to get the shape of the edge of the panel, and to get the moulded in factory screw insets...took a couple of tries before i got the mould to release clean off the new panel, but it turned out nice finally...I ended up priming and painting my mould, and covered it liberally with fluid film..waxed resin seems to be the trick too, as opposed to the laminating mix. My goal is to keep the inevitable layer of bondo to a minimum, and keep the weight down. Stock 2.2 under the hood.
Going to rebuild the rear sides as well....we just got a couple of racing seats in for the back seats, and we're making a new console to run all the way into the trunk

I'll post a pic or two tomorrow. This one's going to be another learning experience for me.
Starterwiz is offline  


Quick Reply: A Debate on the many different aspects of sound



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:51 AM.