Frequency is a big factor when choosing a tweeters location. The higher the frequency the easier it is to have it further away.

 

I use kitchen cutting boards I get at Ikea for the large holes....it's a roughly 3/16" thick piece of fairly tough plastic (2 for $6 or so) and cuts easily to size. A screw in each corner to hold them on and they are strong enough to take the pressure from the roller for the Dynamat....

2 layers and some slots will accommodate rods for door latches and other controls....

HTH

 

Man that's awesome! Nothing wrong with boards (wood or plastic) at all, I just find it works with some doors, other doors with lots of bumps or curves, not so much.

It was so nice out today I should have worked on the doors but got caught up working on the fiberglass mold for the bottom of the sub enclosure.

I'll get the doors done soon.


edit: are you talking about these things?

 

Close....those are too rigid for my liking, these ones are my faves....flexible enough for the bumps in the panel but thick enough to roller the mat on.....

I lied about the price, it's actually $3.99 for 2 sheets....

HTH

 

Been a busy week, just haven't had time to spend on the install. Good news is the fiberglass sub mold is done and the volume is right on the money. By going with fiberglass and having it made to fit the wet-trunk, I gained a significant amount of volume.

When the computer designed the mold, my pal gave me the volume numbers before he CNC'd the positive, I had to confirm the volume for myself. I won't doubt him again!

 

Looks good....

 

Today's mission, install conduit for power cable. There is plenty of room underneath, so I plan to take full advantage of it. Carflex Liquidtight is awesome for running wires externally, however, its wicked to work with in the cold. It will snap like an twig if you're not careful. I know we won't get many more mild days, so today is the day for this stuff.

 

Got the conduit install done, just in time as it's supposed to get pretty dang cold tomorrow. Not the easiest of vehicles to run, but its in and its free and clear of anything I'd be concerned about.


Use the metal clamps, not plastic ones. Stainless screws and spray a little Krown rust proofing in the drilled holes.





Bottoms up. This is the left rear corner, behind the wheel.




And into the rear cargo area under the left panel.

 

Awesome work!

 

Very professional looking!