barrolde

Hi Folks,

Long time PC forum user, first time in car audio. Wasn't hard to decide what one to get involved on - Go Canada! I have read lots but want to confirm my thinking for my particular configuration if you guys can assist.

Ok i've got my 82 chevy k10 halfton gutted and am rewiring a stereo using parts I had around. I have very modest goals here, just want it hooked up right with what I have.

My hardware is:
Deck - Panasonic CQ-C1305U (rear RCA pre outs only)
Amp - Alpine V12 expert MRV-F405 (4 channel)
Door speakers - Alpine SPS-170A 200W max, 40W rms
tweeters - unknown sony (hidden under dash atm)
sub - not purchased yet but will probably be 1 or 2 modest 8" subs under my seat
crossover boxes - JL audio ?XR, have tweeter, woofer and input connections and jumpers to select level of filter i guess.

I was doing good until i saw my deck only had rear pre-outs. My amp has 3 sets of RCA inputs though so i should use a LOC between my deck and amp right? If so, what inputs on my amp should I be running what to from my deck? or should i just trash that pos and get a better deck on the jeej?

Once I have the inputs correct from my deck, I will then go from amp to crossover boxes and from those to appropriate door speakers and tweeters right?

Finally I will go direct from Amp to sub?

Last question and I should probably know this but with the above setup, what outputs on the amp would be going to what? I've only ever used mono amps straight to subs before, sorry for the newbie quesiton.

Thanks alot!

Barry

barrolde

durrrrrr

BigRedGuy

iTrader: (11)

First off welcome to CCA.....

If you want to stick with what you have you can still get some decent sound out of it.

Forget about the LOCs....if you are going to start spending money on that kind of bandage solutions, bite the bullet and buy a better deck with 2 or 3 sets of RCAs.

The deck will do for now, only drawback with one set of RCAs is limitations to what you can do from the deck....all xover and gain settings will have to be done at the amp. Decks like that usually have a LP xover built in to the one set of outputs, you need to confirm that it is set to full range output.

Feed the one set of RCAs into the amp, it will be marked to show you which inputs to use if you only have the one set. There will also be a switch to change the amp from 4 to 2 channel input mode....that needs to be in 2 channel so all four channels get a signal.

Set the xover for the front channels to HP mode and the one for the rear channels to LP mode. Start with 80hz for the frequency on each dial for now.

Front channel speaker outputs go to the (JL XR?) speaker xover input terminals. Make sure you connect them in phase, + to + and - to -. Speaker leads connect the same way.

If you get a sub or 2, make sure you have a 4ohm load, either a single 4ohm driver or a pair of 8ohm models. Your amp will do its maximum output at 4 ohms through those rear channels when they are bridged together. The rear speaker terminals will be marked to show you where to hook up the wires.

You can add more stuff at any time, this setup will make noise without costing you any $$ except for the wires to hook it all up.

It also amplifies all of your speakers instead of using the deck power.....better sound all around. You could use the deck to power the fronts only and the amp for subs but you will find the SQ goes down for the extra volume.....your call really....

There are a few more details for this setup but I will save them for another post.....

HTH

barrolde

yes sir!

thanks for having me and thanks for the reply, i was starting to worry that I made my question too clear or gave too much info haha

Yeah i realized that about LOC's when i looked up the price!

I see that now, there is a channel 1 & 3 input on my amp, i'll run one set of rc's from deck to there. FYI i do have the Y splitter cables too, mind explaining the difference between running 1 set of rca cable into the 1 & 3 input or 2 split rca cables into the 1,2,3,4 inputs?

I don't care about deck controls, once i get it dialed in it will just stay that way so thats cool!

I should be able to get the speakers and tweeters setup now with your help and will make sure i plan for a 4 ohm load when i get my sub.

When i get home tonight, i'll follow your advice and report back. Will be ready for your further details then good sir!

ps. whats bigred standfor / mean? You Redhairyan too?

BigRedGuy

iTrader: (11)

There is no audible difference to using the y cables, if the amp will do the job for you it cuts down on yet another connection that might go flaky on you one day.

Personally I would suggest a single 10" 4ohm sub....you can fit one in the same amount of airspace as 2 8"subs and it should dig a little lower for you. No matter which you choose you will need a good enclosure to get the most out of the system.

The BRG is just a description...big, red hair and still a guy.....

HTH

barrolde

BRG,

Thanks for the tips. you helped me understand what I was trying to accomplish and was able to use my manual to almost do it I could probably be listening to tunes in it right now if my horn hadn't been such a miserable POS.


My battery died once my amp powered up so I can't test my work till the AM but i have one set of RCA from my rear out on my deck into channels 1 and 2 on the amp. Changed the input mode on the amp so it mapped inputs 1 & 2 to 3 & 4 and turned on HP filter for 1 & 2 and LP for 3 & 4 both at 80hz as you've said.

I ran out from + - channel one to + - input on crossover box and out from crossover woofer to + - on the door speaker, also from crossover tweeter output to appropriate tweet leads

Couple of questions.. my passive crossover boxes have woofer and tweet labelled outputs, is that normal? Is it ok to go to a door speaker from the woofer output? I would think that that would be feeding it way to low frequencies wouldn't it?

FYI in the crossoverbox there are two jumpers, one labelled midrange has options of high/med/low and the jumper is on high, one labelled tweeter has options ref/1.5Db/3.0Db and is set to ref.

I also just noticed that besides my sony tweeters, there are tweeters built into the alpine door speakers, does that change anything at all? Will they work? Don't care, just curious.

Thanks again!

By the way i'm a big rugby playing red head myself. I prefer to call us the redhairyans - superior to people with brown hair in every way

BigRedGuy

iTrader: (11)

The active xover in the amp is keeping sub frequencies out of your front door speakers. The passives will keep highs out of the feed to the Alpines so the tweeter in them won't be getting any signal.

Don't worry about the jumpers for now.....once you have the speakers all connected and have listened to them, you may want to try moving them. Doing so will change the relative volume levels between the mid and tweet and you may find you have a preference for a different setting. This takes a fair bit of listening to determine what those settings should be for your ears.....

It also means not actually installing the xovers in your doors until you have finished tweaking the settings.

Have fun with the new setup, tweaking can bring you better sounding tunes at the possible expense of pulling your hair out doing it.......

HTH

barrolde

Haha hey man, almost done.. had an issue w/ the remote line out from deck, it was actually a power antenna line or something and was killing my bat instantly. That deck has no remote out so i wired it to acc wire all good there.

I was listening to the speakers both wired direct and through the passive crossover box, through the crossover was better sq and direct from amp was louder - i elected for the better sq. In that process i also managed to blow both tweeters haha, they were laying around anyways i'll get new ones.

Last question i think - with the tweeters wired from the xover box they were really quiet.. so quiet that i couldn't really distinguish (or hear them) from the door speakers.. i got alot more volume from them wired direct from amp.. maybe thats how i blew them ahh, will get new ones and see how they fare - should i 100% wire them to the crossover or is to the amp ok as long as they are rated for at least 40W rms?

Finally, playing with the filters on the amp we found the speakers sounded much better with the filters off for now because there is no sub yet. Once i get a sub in, i'll filter the lows from my door speakers and have the subs handle all the bass right?

Thanks a million man!

Barry

BigRedGuy

iTrader: (11)

If the tweeters didn't have some kind of passive xover built in to them they blew because when you wired them direct to the amp they were getting everything from 80hz up....the lower frequencies smoked them, not the power you were feeding them.

Make sure your new tweeters are 4ohm models so they match the alpines. If your new tweeters come with a cap on them, you could try this: run them off the front speaker outputs from the deck and feed the midranges from the amp. You will be able to tweak the levels by using the fader on your deck and the amp gain...it may work better..... It's a big maybe but worth a try.....

2 catches:

First the Alpines will still need to be run thru the woofer side of the JL xover to keep the tweeter in them quiet......highs from 2 different locations will sound worse than 1.

Second is the volume from the sub will go up and down with the Alpines so you will need to get the front stage done and then dial in your sub(s).

Failing that....since you are using xovers designed for different drivers the results are going to be a little off no matter what. The old ones may have been quieter due to an odd impedance (6 or 8ohms) and using 4ohm tweets will help with the relative volume issue. If they still seem too quiet try moving the tweeter jumpers to the +1.5 or 3db settings and see if that helps.

New tweets can be pricey.....a new set of decent comps can be had for around $100 or so....matched drivers on the correct xover should sound better than the mish-mash you have now...

Yes you can run the Alpines full range for now by by-passing the xover and wiring them directly to the amp.....I would get your front stage working correctly first and then add the sub.....

HTH

barrolde

Ok, sub shopping tomorrow then

Thanks alot BRG!