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6 15's, blowthrough on 2k. Mid 50's? MTA read this.

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Old Aug 18, 2010 | 04:17 AM
  #71  
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^^^ Shallow V with 4 15's will get plenty loud, he'll have more problems trying to put the 3 straight and "a 4th mounted in the box" .... where you come up with some this stuff man? He just said what he plans to do.
Old Aug 18, 2010 | 07:35 AM
  #72  
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So iv been advised to look into a higher powered sub from the same maker. Will still be 4 15's though.
Old Aug 18, 2010 | 09:26 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by DeadlySones
^^^ Shallow V with 4 15's will get plenty loud, he'll have more problems trying to put the 3 straight and "a 4th mounted in the box" .... where you come up with some this stuff man? He just said what he plans to do.
It's harder to cut angles and do all the crazy math for a 6th order. It's not hard to mount a sub somewhere inside the box. If he's planned a V but 3 across + 1 mounted will be better than why would he disregard it? I don't know how much loss there is with cancellation but if he's making the box himself a slot port would be less of a headache. I know it seems retarded to mount one by itself but then again he could mount 3 on the back of the box and still have an easily designed slot port. Before the wheel wells is 18-19 cf3 so he could do around 2.5-3 cf3 (recommended) with the L series like he originally planned. He's obviously using four though and I'm wondering if these would work:


Last edited by Lord Huggington; Aug 18, 2010 at 09:31 PM.
Old Aug 18, 2010 | 10:10 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by rbgnwa45
It's harder to cut angles and do all the crazy math for a 6th order. It's not hard to mount a sub somewhere inside the box. If he's planned a V but 3 across + 1 mounted will be better than why would he disregard it? I don't know how much loss there is with cancellation but if he's making the box himself a slot port would be less of a headache. I know it seems retarded to mount one by itself but then again he could mount 3 on the back of the box and still have an easily designed slot port. Before the wheel wells is 18-19 cf3 so he could do around 2.5-3 cf3 (recommended) with the L series like he originally planned. He's obviously using four though and I'm wondering if these would work:


I'm so sorry but you are a true audio retard! Think about what you are drawing before you post these box plans . God forbid if anyone actually built something like that. What a waste that would be

one again. I do apologize but I just can't help myself anymore!

Go and read about box design! Don't post anymore
Old Aug 19, 2010 | 12:36 AM
  #75  
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I guess that's a no.
Old Aug 19, 2010 | 10:43 AM
  #76  
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I'm wondering if these would work
no. yes.

no. yes.

Theoretically as long as the rear woofers also have a box behind them, but then they are in a bandpass and the woofers in the front are not.

Better to go with a V, 2 woofers on each side, with a vent in the neck.
Old Aug 20, 2010 | 08:53 AM
  #77  
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Thimgs are starting to come together now. I need to replace the body mount bushing the im cutting. The cut will be on the large side. The powerbass M154D's will be here Monday.
Old Aug 20, 2010 | 10:02 AM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by MTA
I'm so sorry but you are a true audio retard! Think about what you are drawing before you post these box plans . God forbid if anyone actually built something like that. What a waste that would be

one again. I do apologize but I just can't help myself anymore!

Go and read about box design! Don't post anymore
hahahahaahahahahahahhaaahhahahaahahhaha that's a true Yuli reply there Peter!
Old Aug 20, 2010 | 10:37 AM
  #79  
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Where's your 2cents on this endever yuli.
Old Aug 20, 2010 | 01:13 PM
  #80  
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i dont know much about this bandpass stuff, i dont want Peter to tell me.

really tho, i'd just do 3 subs on one side and 3 on the other with the ports at the back

like this,

Name:  blowthru.jpg
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Size:  12.1 KB

you gotta have the loading wall in the middle just like in the drawing.



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