Most expensive MDF box ever!!
11-22-2010, 03:09 PM
#41
Thanks Yuli.... the parts you inspired are still to come, stay tuned...lol
lol.. Dude, thats hilarious!!! the 80's can stay back 
lmao
Numbers!! I wish bro!
I'm numerous pieces of gear short, and have no TL close really
So until I have the big amp
and the other gear to support it, we'll be eventually strapping our little 1K amps at .67 each and bumping till spring .
We tested the XT 2000's . We ran at .5 ohm for about 15 mins. with just the 2 subs and didn't heat up much at all, so I figure were safe at .67 each amp powering the 3 subs.
In the end I want numbers and fancy
lmaoNumbers!! I wish bro!
I'm numerous pieces of gear short, and have no TL close really
So until I have the big amp
and the other gear to support it, we'll be eventually strapping our little 1K amps at .67 each and bumping till spring .We tested the XT 2000's . We ran at .5 ohm for about 15 mins. with just the 2 subs and didn't heat up much at all, so I figure were safe at .67 each amp powering the 3 subs.
In the end I want numbers and fancy
12-12-2010, 10:39 AM
#42
Found some time to work on the box, and here's what been accomplished and whats planned now.
- Installed some sonotube to help direct airflow from the top of the box to the bottom and the port entrance. Thanks for those pics Yuli.
If you look at the other pics, you'll see the sub holes are offset to the top side. This was originally done to help clear the back seats when the subs were firing forward with the seats down.
- since we're firing the subs back now took out the "feet" that were also for seat clearance.
- ^^ that caused a small fitment problem on the tailgate molding...ooops
- sooo, we'll cut off the corners, solve the fitment problem with the molding
- havent done it yet , but we'll add a 3/4" mdf 45deg on the inside to seal it back up.
Next steps will be to get those 45s in, cut the holes in the sonotube for the ports, fiberglass tape and resin the outside 45s, feather in the sonotube edge inside the box with putty, fill and smooth the no longer needed "feet" screwholes and resin the whole box.....
Who was it told me this was soooo easy...
lol Fun though
- Installed some sonotube to help direct airflow from the top of the box to the bottom and the port entrance. Thanks for those pics Yuli.
If you look at the other pics, you'll see the sub holes are offset to the top side. This was originally done to help clear the back seats when the subs were firing forward with the seats down.
- since we're firing the subs back now took out the "feet" that were also for seat clearance.
- ^^ that caused a small fitment problem on the tailgate molding...ooops
- sooo, we'll cut off the corners, solve the fitment problem with the molding
- havent done it yet , but we'll add a 3/4" mdf 45deg on the inside to seal it back up.
Next steps will be to get those 45s in, cut the holes in the sonotube for the ports, fiberglass tape and resin the outside 45s, feather in the sonotube edge inside the box with putty, fill and smooth the no longer needed "feet" screwholes and resin the whole box.....
Who was it told me this was soooo easy...
lol Fun though
12-15-2010, 08:08 AM
#43
Corners/45s are in and the putty feathering is roughed in also.
I'd like to make the box's surface as perfect as possible , the plan is to paint the box grey/silver before applying the last 2 coats of resin.
That way if we don't get it wrapped, it won't bother me so much.
Gonna wait till after bah humbug to resin it though, the bulk of my family will be here and I'm sure they would rather smell coffee and shortcake than resin...lol
Getting close though
I do have a q
- When I cut the holes in the sonotube for the ports to slide through, should I try to make them airtight around the tube or would a tight fit be ok?
I'd like to make the box's surface as perfect as possible , the plan is to paint the box grey/silver before applying the last 2 coats of resin.
That way if we don't get it wrapped, it won't bother me so much.
Gonna wait till after bah humbug to resin it though, the bulk of my family will be here and I'm sure they would rather smell coffee and shortcake than resin...lol
Getting close though
I do have a q
- When I cut the holes in the sonotube for the ports to slide through, should I try to make them airtight around the tube or would a tight fit be ok?
12-15-2010, 08:49 PM
#44
Corners/45s are in and the putty feathering is roughed in also.
I'd like to make the box's surface as perfect as possible , the plan is to paint the box grey/silver before applying the last 2 coats of resin.
That way if we don't get it wrapped, it won't bother me so much.
Gonna wait till after bah humbug to resin it though, the bulk of my family will be here and I'm sure they would rather smell coffee and shortcake than resin...lol
Getting close though
I do have a q
- When I cut the holes in the sonotube for the ports to slide through, should I try to make them airtight around the tube or would a tight fit be ok?
I'd like to make the box's surface as perfect as possible , the plan is to paint the box grey/silver before applying the last 2 coats of resin.
That way if we don't get it wrapped, it won't bother me so much.
Gonna wait till after bah humbug to resin it though, the bulk of my family will be here and I'm sure they would rather smell coffee and shortcake than resin...lol
Getting close though
I do have a q
- When I cut the holes in the sonotube for the ports to slide through, should I try to make them airtight around the tube or would a tight fit be ok?
but you don't have to be about it.....
12-16-2010, 11:17 AM
#46
12-16-2010, 03:45 PM
#50
I was wondering about the "dead" area behind the tube , like you mentioned Yuli , and if it may effect anything if it wasn't sealed off from the box.
You don't like that curve there ? I got the idea from your pics!!! lol
I don't want to seal the ports in, wouldn't be easy tuning then!! Which would kinda defeat the reason for using the PSP ports to begin with.
If I did fail at getting the ports through tightly. What could it do, performance wise?
