Dukk

In a "2seat" car like you prefer, where both the driver and passenger get accomodated, you would use the T/A to compensate for something like dash tweeters being closer than kickpanel mids. You delay the tweeters so they are in time with the mids. In most cars this means adjusting both drivers the same amount.

In a "1seat" car the driver is optomized at the expense of everything else. All speakers are delayed so they arrive at the same time as the farthest one from the driver. And yes, this makes it image like *** for the passenger but it theoretically should make it better for the driver than a 2seat car can.

I prefer to have a 2seat car, even if I am the only one in it 95% of the time.

Denonite

iTrader: (1)

If the car is properly set up, the difference between 1 seat and 2 seat is very minimal. I drove around for 3 months with mine set to 2 seat without realizing, and even though i prefer 1 seat with just me in the car, it's not a big difference.

Rrrrolla

iTrader: (3)

Thanks guys, I guess it works pretty well how I thought it did. Can anyone point me in the direction of a head unit than do this? And isnt all that expensive. Cuz I'm cheap. I would like to hear how it sounds in my car. I spent alot of time and money getting my PLD's as equal as I could with my kickpanels, I think T/A would be fun to play with, but I would certainly turn it off with anyone else in the car.

Thanks

vrdublu

iTrader: (5)

I think since you already put time and effort into setting up your kicks the T/A will only enhance what you have already tried to do. If you want to setup for both driver and passanger I suggest hanging the MIC from the ceiling, ear height between the two and see what you get. Try the drivers seat headrest first, don't mess with it for 1 week till you get used to it (I don't know how well your system is setup) then try to adjust it to your tastes. I recommend the Pioneer 880PRS or the newer but almost exactly the same unit the 800PRS or the 980BT they all have the same audio functions just different bells and whistles. the 16 band EQ per channel is also a nice touch as you can enhance your cars accoustics. I have used all three and to me the T/A and crossover points chosen by the unit during setup is right on the money as far as I'm concerned on all units. Once you go T/A you will never go back, maybe the $350-$400 price tag may deter you though. There's also the slightly cheaper Alpine 9887 at just under $300 but once you figuer in the external T/A modile and shipping it's not worth it and doesn't come with as good of an EQ. GL have fun.

JohnVroom

^ um I would like to point out only a few HU use microphones, and most of them were unpopular and the mic even costs extra on some. The prices you quote are not retail either... I am not slamming the products or you but trying to give the guy realistic expectations.

I will repeat that I think great sound is routinely achieved without auto EQ or T/A, and my opinion is that it is generally superior too (but certainly not easier). Auto EQ and T/A is a valued option on many HU and numerous people have sung its praise on this forum, a noob will most likely get better sound faster with auto EQ.

vrdublu

iTrader: (5)

All receivers that I know of use a mic for T/A, at least the newer ones. Auto EQ is a great tool for finding the acoustics of your car, doesn't mean you have to use it. Those prices I quoted are Ebay prices and yes they do not reflect retail, only suckers pay retail.

RomanticMoments

Auto EQ's (no offense) are a waste of time. I've used auto calibration systems both in car and in the home, and in both areas they have created more problems than they're worth. A whisper or the slightest noise, breeze or vibration in the measuring area throws off the measurements. Last time I used an auto-cal system was in my H.T. system. I was curious to see how much it would differ from my own settings, and when it was done it tried to set my low pass cross-over at just under 200Hz, when the sub's max range was 20-120Hz, leaving a nasty hole in response. The fridge kicking on in another room of the house created enough of a difference that the mic percieved it as a spike in the 500Hz range, so it decided to pull a ton of EQ out of that range. Even the levels and T/A were off. Set it by ear is my advice. My ears aren't mics, my ears are my ears, so that's the best measuring tool IMO

d4rin

The Eclipse CD5030 has Auto EQ but I haven't used it. I think it's best that I tune the levels to my ears instead of using a mic.

I am not saying that it might not work well, I just choose not to bother with it right now.

JohnVroom

vrdublu is correct that most current TA HU can be hooked up to a mic, many have to pay extra for that mic or the auto EQ service, my bad.

Dukk

Auto T/A has merits if the algorithms are decent. Auto EQ, IMO, is lamesauce. I have never had it deliver what I considered decent results. I haven't tried it on anything in the last couple of years though.