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Let's Seperate Myth From Fact....

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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 11:48 AM
  #131  
vrdublu's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Dukk
Auto T/A has merits if the algorithms are decent. Auto EQ, IMO, is lamesauce. I have never had it deliver what I considered decent results. I haven't tried it on anything in the last couple of years though.
I think partially because most "SQ" or sound experts will tell you that a completely flat response is the best, whereas I believe that a flat response is what most people don't like. When I originally setup my T/A and Auto EQ in the Jetta, the T/A was right on the money as far as staging goes. The EQ was setup as flat, and even though I gave it some time I still didn't like the response I was getting. I changed a few things here and there till I got what I liked, although I wasn't that far off of what the HU had suggested. All these tools, are just that "tools" to help you achieve the sound you want. You need to walk before you run, and if you have never heard a proper soundstage in a car or don't know what kind of sound you liike, sometimes you just need a little guidance, and that's all these HU's do. Once you use a deck with T/A and EQ and learn to setup the system and find what you like, you will wonder why you didn't use it all along.

P.S. That's 14 pages of dancing around the same topic, that's funny.
Old Jan 10, 2010 | 01:39 PM
  #132  
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it's really hard to tell someone what sounds good SQ is personal preference....
install is always important but the equiptment is equally as important
most top end equiptment sounds awsome..some produce more transparent
and detailed tonality than others

for myself a flat setting sux azz....I like the top end a bit brighter
Old Jan 10, 2010 | 04:24 PM
  #133  
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I don't think you will find a single SQ Competitor that will tell you a flat line on an RTA sounds best. Now, devise an EQ curve that compensates for the frequency response of our ears (search Fletcher-Munson Curves) so that it is 'acoustically flat' and you may get some argument for or against.

Regardless, smooth frequency response is the goal.
Old Jan 10, 2010 | 07:27 PM
  #134  
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Time for a new myth. How about paralleled batteries draining each other?
Old Jan 11, 2010 | 09:37 AM
  #135  
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^^^ LOL
I was thinking the same thing.... We can roll with the battery one, then I got a good one
Old Jan 11, 2010 | 02:41 PM
  #136  
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Lightbulb

Originally Posted by kevmurray
Time for a new myth. How about paralleled batteries draining each other?
You mean they won't just immediately equalize and settle?!?!? But.....that only makes complete sense....
Old Jan 11, 2010 | 03:24 PM
  #137  
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Originally Posted by Dukk
You mean they won't just immediately equalize and settle?!?!? But.....that only makes complete sense....
LOL but wait, what happens when one is bigger than the other? The big kid on the teeter-totter bullies the little one right?
Old Jan 11, 2010 | 03:37 PM
  #138  
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Originally Posted by Dukk
You mean they won't just immediately equalize and settle?!?!? But.....that only makes complete sense....
No way dood! One will charge the other, and once it has done so, the second battery will sense the draw from the first and will charge the first, then it continues to recycle the power back and forth until both batteries go flat. You can only wire car bats in series and it's better cuz you get more voltage
Old Jan 11, 2010 | 09:57 PM
  #139  
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... dissimilar batteries, I know I have used them.. all wet cell (no AGM/ gel/ wet combo) and never saw this affect even when left unattended for 2 weeks. I would expect dissimilar charging rates, dissimilar discharge rates and would be less than ideal in a SPL/ SQ setup. But I don't know about the parasitic discharge... it would be fun to figure out by doing T&E.
Old Jan 12, 2010 | 12:05 AM
  #140  
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2 SUBS is BETTER THAN 1!??????????????????

not for spl, but sound quality...This just came to mind reading this whole shabang. I am running mids and tweets in front i want to add some bass, will 1 sub in the front middle be sufficient or would 2 subs in the doors be better? Is there songs that switch the 0-150hz levels between L and R??? Sub amps are usually mono!

Last edited by livesound; Jan 12, 2010 at 12:11 AM.



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