Let's Seperate Myth From Fact....
0 Watt CAFz'r
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 32
2 SUBS is BETTER THAN 1!??????????????????
not for spl, but sound quality...This just came to mind reading this whole shabang. I am running mids and tweets in front i want to add some bass, will 1 sub in the front middle be sufficient or would 2 subs in the doors be better? Is there songs that switch the 0-150hz levels between L and R??? Sub amps are usually mono!
not for spl, but sound quality...This just came to mind reading this whole shabang. I am running mids and tweets in front i want to add some bass, will 1 sub in the front middle be sufficient or would 2 subs in the doors be better? Is there songs that switch the 0-150hz levels between L and R??? Sub amps are usually mono!
If you want to hear an example, try the song Electronic Music by Bass Mechanik
Last edited by matt5112; Jan 18, 2010 at 04:25 PM.
0 Watt CAFz'r
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 16
well i don't want my midrange playing those frequencies either, so i guess what i really meant was 75-300hz MIDbass from 1 sub or 2? but thats no myth, all fact that 3way front stage is better than 2.1 front stage....i got a big sub in the back for the lowbass, but want the sound to transition front to back abit better.....
so you figure a couple midbass speakers would be better than 2-8" subs for the doors in a small(recommended sealed) enclosure??????
so you figure a couple midbass speakers would be better than 2-8" subs for the doors in a small(recommended sealed) enclosure??????
0 Watt CAFz'r
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 32
8" subs generally are midbass speakers.
If the speaker is playing higher than 80 Hz then you need stereo.
a pair of 8" subs or 10" would be great in the doors granted you didn't used the door as the enclosure.
If the speaker is playing higher than 80 Hz then you need stereo.
a pair of 8" subs or 10" would be great in the doors granted you didn't used the door as the enclosure.
Last edited by matt5112; Jan 18, 2010 at 04:25 PM.
0 Watt CAFz'r
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 16
wasnt plannin on it but would a free-air sub work without enclosure in the doors??? i've never actually used or heard one but, with a whole bunch of dynamat or similar that wouldn't sound totally bad....or would it?
0 Watt CAFz'r
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 32
I have no idea what you mean by free-air sub because all subs are designed to run in an enclosure of some kind. Even infinite baffle subs, which aren't exactly possible in a car unless the driver is so small it has no meaningful output to begin with.
Anytime you're running any frequencies under 150 Hz in the doors, it WILL sound bad. And thats with small drivers... My stock 5.25" midwoofers in my car do some damage to my doors.
Now imagine using a driver that can displace 3-4 times the amount of air. That honestly can't be fixed by using bandaids. Solve the problem up front and decouple it from the door. And that means decouple the backwave as well.
Anytime you're running any frequencies under 150 Hz in the doors, it WILL sound bad. And thats with small drivers... My stock 5.25" midwoofers in my car do some damage to my doors.
Now imagine using a driver that can displace 3-4 times the amount of air. That honestly can't be fixed by using bandaids. Solve the problem up front and decouple it from the door. And that means decouple the backwave as well.
Last edited by matt5112; Jan 18, 2010 at 04:25 PM.
Yankee
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 3,599
Anytime you're running any frequencies under 150 Hz in the doors, it WILL sound bad. And thats with small drivers... My stock 5.25" midwoofers in my car do some damage to my doors.
Now imagine using a driver that can displace 3-4 times the amount of air. That honestly can't be fixed by using bandaids. Solve the problem up front and decouple it from the door. And that means decouple the backwave as well.
Now imagine using a driver that can displace 3-4 times the amount of air. That honestly can't be fixed by using bandaids. Solve the problem up front and decouple it from the door. And that means decouple the backwave as well.
