macguyver

I covered all the holes, basically I used about 2/3 of a sheet of Cascade per door. I sprayed the interior of the door with Cascade spray, then installed a 10" Spectra Dynamics De-Flex pad behind the mid-bass driver to break up any standing waves or destructive interferance from the door's parallel panels. Wherever the rods for the lock actuators ran, or door linkage, I notched the matting just enough to allow them to move, and nothing more. Those doors were solid, and a noticable "CHUNK!!" when closed.

To this day I miss that car.

shamuscustomz

i like the rockford components they are very powerful and have good midbass. If you have space issues there prety big though. My second choice would be JL c5 components in my opinion there some of the nicest ive ever heard they sound very clear but warm as well if that makes sense.

The Grinch

Someone else mentioned thin wood or plexiglass. I don't know what thickness, but I guess if you just deaden both sides it won't matter too much. I'm probably going to use a silicone for fish tanks to secure the pieces in place. That would probably outlast the car.

BTW, what's the cascade stuff that was mentioned? The last time I checked I was putting that in my dishwasher.

The Grinch

By the way, where do you get Spectra Dynamics DeFlex? Is it online only or can I walk into Home Depot and pick it up?

macguyver

http://www.partsconnexion.com/catalo...s_isofeet.html

Madisound Shopping Cart

And this is the Cascade V-Block. Best stuff I ever used (in the days when Dynamat used to rule):

http://www.cascadeaudio.com/car_noise_control/index.htm

John__Taylor

iTrader: (3)

I just did 4 doors, still need to do the rear area and floor, but heres what I did:

-Plastic off first
-Deadener on inside of the outer door skin.
-deadener on the inside of the inner door frame (sticky side facing inside of car) to cover all holes.
-deadener on the outside of the inner door frame,(sticky side facing outside of car) especially over those holes, so in effect I have 2 layers covering the large holes, one layer stuck to another.
-deadener on the bottom inside of the door, being careful to leave drain holes clear.
-plastic back on.

By the way, I still screwed up by leaving a piece too close to the window track on one door. Tore off & ripped the connectors off the speaker

I would say its about 10lbs or so per door. Made a huge, huge difference, but I still have 40 square feet to go. Not looking forward to floor, trust me. Seats, console, seat tracks, etc, all have to come out to do it properly. At least the cargo area looks easy

Cheers

John