keep us posted on the system...should be sweet!

 

Definitely will.

I'm contemplating whether or not I want to try the install myself. I think I could handle the amp, and necessary wiring from the battery and head-unit. I'm not so sure about the front speakers. There isn't an OEM tweeter location that I can just swap the new ones into. My Elantra shared the same tweeter panel as the GT Elantra does. So the tweeter location was actually already semi-cut... I'd imagine hers might be the same.

How much is an install for this amp, and two front components going to cost me? Its a brand-new car, I don't want to wreck anything on her.

 

Proper install is key. One shop may give you a lower price than the other, but the job is still the same, and most of the time that would mean the cheaper shop may use inferior accessories, and cut corners to give you a better deal without you knowing it. You think you're getting a better deal, but you're getting what you pay for. Find a shop that is highly recommended to do a good job, and charge universal hourly rates. I would use good quality RCA's, dont have to be top of the line, second from top is ok. I mean around $50 for a set of RCA's that usually costs around $100 gets you really nice stuff. Use good quality 12-14awg speaker wire for the fronts, and 12awg for the sub should be sufficient too. No need for caps, or distribution blocks, just nice clean minimal install. And I would upgrade at least one ground under the hood for the negative post at the battery to chassis. You're probably going to use 4awg(125 amp ANL fuse) for the power wire, and you may use the same for the ground upgrade.

 

The fronts aren't going to wired right from the amp, right? I thought it was easier to bring the speaker wires from the amp to the wiring harness and connect them in behind the console. Somebody had asked about this in a different post. One of the responses was that the gauge and length of the wire between the harness and the speakers is sufficient to carry the new amplified signal. Does that hold true in our case?

I wasn't sure if the "big 3" was something we should consider for a relatively tame setup. But you're suggesting to at least have a thicker gauge put in for the batteries ground. Should any shop be willing and able to do this?

I right an email to the shop we've been going to, to see what it'll cost.

 

[QUOTE=TragicMagic;426856]The fronts aren't going to wired right from the amp, right? I thought it was easier to bring the speaker wires from the amp to the wiring harness and connect them in behind the console. QUOTE]

This is the lazy mans way of installing. If you are going to do it right, you will run the wire right to the speaker. Most shops you go to will do the wiring this way as it is a quick in and out job, take your money, boot you out the door and get the next guy in. Ensure that the shop you go to knows that you want the installation done PROPERLY. Yes it adds time and you get what you pay for.

The Big 3 and upgraded ground wiring is also something that shops do not do unless specifically asked. You would be surprised to find out how many shops still do not know what this is and how to do it.

 

Sounds like some sort of monkey business with the wiring harness. Run the speaker wires directly from the amp to the speakers. Do that big 1 of 3 for sure, cause you need to upgrade that ground, as your system power wire will be passing as much current as the factory ground on that battery, which could be 8awg. If you are going to use 4awg for power, then you need to complete the curcuit with 4awg ground upgrade. It is a short run from negative battery post to car body. Make sure you brush off any paint where you attach that wire, so that the wire is secured to bare metal for proper grounding. Easy to do. No need to do the other 2 of big 3 in your case.